Monday, August 01, 2005


WELL KNOWN "HAIDA MASTER CARVER CHRISTIAN WHITE" GRACIOUSLY EXPLAINS HIS CARVING TECHNIQUE TO US.
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A VISIT TO A MASTER CARVER'S WORK SHOP IN OLD MASSET
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FROM THIS NORTHERN POINT OF GRAHAM ISLAND NEAR MASSAT IN THE QUEEN CHARLOTTES, IT IS SAID ON A CLEAR DAY YOU CAN SEE ALASKA.LOUIE AND DAYLE BEACHCOMB FOR AGATES, AMBER AND SHELLS
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ROUTE MAP: QUEEN CHARLOTTES
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GILLEN HARBOR ACROSS HECATE STRAIT TO QUEEN CHARLOTTE CITY JULY 13TH and 14TH

We motored / sailed for 6 hours to Gillen Harbor to prepare for our crossing of the infamous Hecate Strait. We checked our Weather Fax and Sailmail Grib Files broadcasted over our Single Sideband Radio and the Marine Weather forecasts on our VHF radio to confirm our weather conditions. We departed at 5 AM and motored / sailed 108 miles to Queen Charlotte City arriving at 8 PM. We had a good crossing with moderate wind and seas. The swells were "lumpy" rather than rolling because of the contour of the bottom and shallow depths. It causes a "squirrelly" ride.
We anchored in the bay near Queen Charlotte City. We were all exhausted from the long voyage and retired after dinner. The next day we investigated the small village. Daniel and I checked out the local pub called "Howlers". We ran across some of the local charactors. That evening we attended the mandatory orientation to enter the Gwaii Haanas National Park and World Heritage Site.

WE ANCHORED FOREVER AND EVER AND SEVENTH HEAVEN IN THE BAY NEAR QUEEN CHARLOTTE CITY
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LOUIE STUDIES THE INFORMATION AT THE MANDATORY ORIENTATION TO ENTER GWAII HAANAS NATIONAL PARK. IT IS A VERY IMPORTANT PROGRAM TO PRESERVE THIS WILDERNESS AND HERITAGE SITE.
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I MADE DANIEL'S REQUEST OF A: CRAB, PRAWN, ANCHOVIE PIZZA WITH CAPERS, ROASTED GARLIC, VIRGIN OLIVE OIL ON A FRESHLY BAKED WHOLE WHEAT CRUST. . . . YUMMY! WE USED FRESH CRAB AND PRAWNS THAT WE CAUGHT ALONG THE WAY.
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THERE ARE MORE BALD EAGLES IN THE QUEEN CHARLOTTES AND ANY OTHER PLACE IN THE WORLD
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SACRED SITE TO GILLEN HARBOR JULY 12TH

We departed Coward's Cove to find a sacred tribal site not well known to most. Friends of ours that have explored this area came upon it and shared its location. We followed their instructions and anchored off a wide beach. We went ashore and began to search. We followed some footsteps on the beach which lead to no where. We hiked and climbed and bushwhacked our way though the forest and along the shore. Daniel dropped his new digital camera and broke it. He slipped on a rock and hit his head. As we walked back to our landing site I noticed what appeared to be a hand reaching out of the sand. I got close enough to take a photo but did not want to investigate any further. When we were all about ready give up Dayle noticed a large black raven squawking from above. She followed his call into the forest near our landing site. Soon we could hear her joyful calls. She had found the ancient site. We all joined her and in silence marveled at the discovery.
We boarded our boats for our voyage to Gillen Harbor where we would prepare for our crossing of the infamous "Hecate Strait" and on to the Queen Charlotte Islands.

WE LAND ASHORE WITH OUR BOATS ANCHORED IN THE DISTANCE TO FIND THE "SACRED SITE" USED BY THE TRIBAL CHIEFS FOR CENTURIES. PLAGUES OF SMALL POX AND INFLUENZA WIPED OUT WHOLE POPULATIONS OF FIRST NATION'S TRIBES AFTER CONTACT WITH EUROPEANS.
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LOVELY PATTERNS OF KELP, SHELLS AND STARS DECORATE THE BEACH
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AMONGST THE SHELLS AND SEAGRASS IT APPEARS A HAND IS REACHING OUT OF THE SAND . . . . . .
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HUGE CEDAR BEAMS THAT HELD UP THE ROOF OF THE LONGHOUSE OF THE SACRED TRIBAL CHIEF'S SITE
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THE LONGHOUSE IS RETURNING TO THE FOREST. NOTICE THE SEATING AND THE TREES THAT HAVE GROWN SINCE THE SITE WAS INHABITED. THE AGE OF THE OF THE NEW GROWTH IS APPROXIMATELY 125 YEARS OLD.
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MEYER'S NARROWS TO COWARD'S COVE JULY 11TH

We spent the morning in Klemtu buying provisions at the well stocked store since the BC Ferry had delivered a fresh load of supplies the day before. We purchased fuel and departed 4:15 PM to time high slack tide at Meyer's Narrows. Daniel brought us through without incidence sometimes reaching shallows of 10 feet. Our draft is or "keel" is 8 feet. These narrows must be navigated at slack high tide! We entered "Cowards Cove" which has a very narrow entrance. This area is exposed to the open ocean so this small cozy cove offers good protection. Just before sunset it started to sprinkle and a beautiful rainbow appeared. As the sun set the sky became inflamed with deep reds, purples and oranges. It appeared as if we were anchored in a Maxfield Parrish painting.

DANIEL CAREFULLY NAVIGATES MEYER'S NARROWS AT HIGH SLACK TIDE
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WE PASSED ANCIENT PICTOGRAPHS ON THE WALLS OF THE MEYER'S NARROWS
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A RAINBOW APPEARS JUST BEFORE SUNSET
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A STUNNING "MAXFIELD PARRISH" SUNSET IN COWARD'S COVE
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