Monday, August 31, 2009

Aug. 25th - Knight Inlet to Queen Charlotte Strait

In the morning we departed Minstrel Island. The clouds played hide and seek
with the mountain tops.

As we entered Knight Inlet we saw the old sailing ship Providence heading towards Glendale with hopes of finding Grizzly Bears.

As we entered Queen Charlotte Strait, Dante went to the bow when he saw a large black dorsal fin in the distance.

He first sighted a large male Orca.
Soon a female appeared.

Then a mother and her baby.

They were traveling apart from one another not in the usual closeness of a pod.
Perhaps this "tail slapping" was to call the others together.

We were delighted to see this female going "head over heels"

This mail popped up right along side the boat!

He then dove away from the boat and we decided that he was as curious about us as we were about him.
He surfaced in the distance.

The family then joined up together and swam off into the distance.
We pulled into Telegraph Cove for the night.

Aug. 24th - Minstrel Island

We departed Kwatsi Bay and stopped into Bond Sound and Thompson Inlet hoping to see Grizzly Bears. We didn't see any because the salmon have not come up the rivers to spawn.
We arrived at Minstrel Island which is abandoned now.
The large building that housed the restaurant is gone.
We saw an eerie ghost hanging from a rope in one of the empty buildings.

We tied up to one of the docks. Lou asked a woman living in a small floathouse if anyone was in charge of the property. She said that it is abandoned and boats come and go at will.
An old sailing ship pulled in. She was 76 ft. not counting her bowsprit.
She was built in Holland in 1902. Her name is "Providence".
Lou talked with the captain and first mate. They live aboard and cruise the Pacific Northwest. We invited them aboard Seventh Heaven and exchanged stories. It was a very interesting visit to this once vital place. The community was named for minstrel shows performed by crew aboard the HMS Amethyst. For 75 years it boasted a busy community of loggers and commercial fishermen. It was a popular marina until about 5 years ago. The owner was eventually arrested for having a Marijuana Grow Op and is now in prison. It as been abandoned for several years.

Aug. 23rd - Kwatsi Bay and White Sided Dolphins

We headed up Tribune Channel to one of our favorite places Kwatsi Bay. This glacier carved inlet is shaped like a 2,000 ft. granite amphitheater with waterfalls cascading down the steep walls. The owners Anca, Max and their children Marike and Russell are wonderful!
At the entrance to Kwatsi Bay we encountered a pod of White Sided Dolphins herding fish into the bay.
When they saw Seventh Heaven they turned and followed us playing with the bow.

They played with us for an hour!
They rode the wake of our bow.
They jumped, rolled and then circled around to do it again.
We marveled at their speed and agility!

Aug. 21st. - Birthday at Echo Bay

We started celebrating Dante's 45th Birthday the night before with his favorite dinner of
home made Pepperoni Pizza.

On the day of his birthday we attended Pierre's Pig Roast.

The pig and all of the trimmings were delicious!

We returned to the boat for our traditional birthday cake which was slightly listing to one side because I baked underway. A great time was had by all.

HAPPY 45TH BIRTHDAY DANTE!!!

Aug. 20th - Aboard the "MV Lukwa"

Dante and Deb board the MV Lukwa from Telegraph Cove to whale watch.
Unfortunately, it was not in the cards to see Orcas but there were other creatures to be enjoyed.
The Lukwa's sister ship MV Gikumi is surprised by a large Humpback Whale!

This Humpback's fluke cascades water just before a deep dive.
This Humpback is fondly known as "Freckles" because of the white spots near it's dorsal fin.

Scars from an encounter with a propeller marks the hump on this whale's back.

Steller Seals cling to the rocks on Stubbs Island.

Gulls dive on a bait ball in Johnstone Strait.
Click to enlarge to see this young Bald Eagle's catch.
(Be sure to click the "Return Arrow" to return to the blog.)
Returning to Port McNeill we spotted this shy black bear along the roadside.

Aug. 18th - Back to Campbell River Then Return to Port McNeill

Our son Daniel departed from Campbell River on Aug. 10th. His 3 week visit with us was full of fun, adventure and great food. We will miss you Daniel!

Welcome son and daughter Dante and Deb! They joined us in Campbell River on Aug 15th.
Lou and Dante sailed Seventh Heaven from Campbell River to Port McNeill through opposing current and 35 knot winds. Their speed over ground was reduced to 1.8 knots at 3,000 RP M's at times. After anchoring in Port Neville for the night they were confronted with "Pea Soup" fog for the rest of the passage and at one point barely missing a tug in tow. The "tow" was visible on radar but not the "tug". Fortunately the fog cleared enough to see the tow line between the 2 vessels in time to avoid a collision!

Deb and I drove up Hwy 19 toward Port McNeill.
We stopped at an observation point at Seymour Narrows to watch Seventh Heaven pass through. They are the "white speck" on the photo heading northwest about 20 minutes early for slack tide.

As we continued up the highway we noticed the little village of Sayward. Sayward is located on Johnstone Strait, on the east coast of Vancouver Island just about one hour north of Campbell River and two hours south of Port Hardy, which is on the northern tip of the Island. Sayward is home to about 400 people and it's Kelsey Bay harbour and wharf is the only small craft harbour located on Johnstone Strait mid-way between Campbell River & Port McNeill.

The breakwater is made up of old ships that helps protect the small harbor from the fierce currents of Race Passage.

While there we decided to have lunch. Upon recommendation we found "The Cable House Restaurant". Below is the history written on the back of the menu.
Great way to recycle old logging cable!
Inside we enjoyed a wonderful late breakfast with fresh baked bread and cinnamon rolls.
What a find!
We continued up the highway and came upon the small village of "Woss".
As we explored we discovered the "Beaver Cove - Nimpkish - Woss - Vernon , BC - line about 56 miles long. Construction of the line began in 1917 by the Nimpkish Timber Company. Nimpkish Timber Company renamed Wood & English Logging in 1924. Beaver Cove Lumber & Pulp Company purchased in 1926 to form Canadian Forest Products.
Acquired by Western Forest Products and renamed
Englewood Railway of Western Forest Products in 2006.

The "Grey Ghost" with Engine #113 ran tourist excursions until a few years ago.
The passenger car stands empty with only the ghosts of the "Days gone by".

We pulled into Telegraph Cove to purchase Dante's birthday gift of a whale watching trip aboard the 60 foot (17 metre) vessel "MV Lukwa". Our timing was perfect as we walked to the end of the dock a pod of Orcas were passing. Males, females, aunts, uncles and several babies.It was MAGIC!

It was really a special day! As we left Telegraph Cove we noticed a black bear on the hillside.

The bear was feasting on Salal Berries.
They must have tasted really good because of this smile on it's face!
Just before we entered Hwy. 19 we encountered this mother and her twins.
Does it get any better than this?

Yes it does!
Along the Hwy to Port Hardy we saw this black bear enjoying a snack of clover.
"OK, you can take one more picture and that's it!"