June 3, 2013 - Klemtu to Hartley Bay via Tolmie Channel, Kay Reach to Hartley Bay - 64 Nautical Miles

We departed Klemtu at 6 am and proceed up the long narrow Tolmie Channel.  Our eyes were peeled for the elusive Kermode Bear, or "Spirit Bear"which is a sub-species of the black bear and only resides on or near Princess Royal Island. Our route runs along the narrow channel next to the Spirit Bear's habitat.  It is not an Albino but the recessive gene appears in 1 out of 10 bears born near that region.  There are many native legends about it's appearance.

We planned the current in our favor and motored - sailed along at 8 - 10 knots.

We watched intently to no avail.  The "Creator" kept the  Spirit  Bears all to herself today

We recognize the lovely waterfall at Butedale.  As we tuned in to the bay it was apparent how much nature had reclamed from the old cannery site since we last saw it in 2008.

The main Warehouse building had completely collapsed and the tired old buildings appeared to be waiting in line for the next one's demise.

In 1909 until 1950 this was a thriving community of approximately 400 people.  Now it has a population of one.

He fights the losing battle with nature day by day one board at a time.  He will welcome you and share stories of the "Glory Days" while just in the background Mother Nature comsumes the site with her mighty fangs.

Lou the caretaker of Butedale
(Photo by Ocean Flyers)

Lou waived at us as we circled by with a forlorn look on his face.  We did not stop even though the abandonned building tries to lure us in with the promise of "Ice Cream" long since melted and gone.

 I cooked up some Side Striped Shrimp that a nice Prawner gave me in Port McNeill.  He tole me they only sell the White Spot Prawns but sometimes Side Stripes get in the net.  They are vegetarian and only eat Kelp.  I steamed them in Beer, onions, garlic, black pepper and red pepper flakes.

 When we arrived in Hartley Bay there was no room for us at the dock so we continued to the nearby Coghlan Anchorage.  I peeled the shrimp in the cockpit while the guys put the anchor down.

I made a delicious salad with Romaine Lettuce, onions, celery, tomatoes, sprouts, toasted almonds and my Balsamic Vinegar and Virgin Olive Oil Dressing.

We enjoyed our salad with a glass of white wine in the cockpit surrounded by peaks of glaciated mountains, puffy white clouds, brilliant blue sky and emerald green water.
Another day in Paradise!

June 2, 2013 - Shearwater to Klemtu via Seaforth Channel, Millbanke Sound, Finlayson Channel - 37 Nautical Miles

8am: We depart Shearwater under blue sky and light wind. We turn to port out Seaforth Channel past Dryad Lighthouse.  This is open ocean so we experience swells to our broadside and for some time we have uncomfortable side to side rolling.  We soon begin our turn at Millbanke Sound into Finlayson Channel.

We look from the stern at Seaforth Channel.

Dryad Point House est. in 1833.

As we enter open ocean we have left the protection of the Inside Passage.Swells hit us broadside and cause an uncomfortable roll.  Dishes and loose items crash to floor below.

As we enter Finlayson Channel we see an infinite maze of  islands.   The water is calm once again.

As we round the bend into the native village of Klemtu we can see the beautiful  cedar Big House that was built in 2005.  It is the center of the Kitasoo Tribal Ceremonies of the Tshimsian Frist Nations.  We have had a personal guided tour of the interior by Elder Francis Robinson in 2007.  It is full of incredible carvings.  

We notice the faded sign welcoming us to Klemtu but see no activity in the village.  When hailed someone on the VHF Radio a voice answered and said:  "Tie up anywhere that is open." 

We found a spot on the only dock that was still afloat.

We went ashore and found everything closed.  There was one other small sailboat on the dock that said  he had tried to pay but there was no one to take his payment.

June 1, 2013 - Smith Inlet, Fitz-Hugh Sound to Shearwater- 60 Nautical Miles

In the Morning at 5 am we pulled anchor to continue up Fitz-Hugh Sound. The current is with us so our passage to Shearwater will be within our range of 60 nautical miles.  As we cruise along the wide body of water we see the spouts of Humpback Whales feeding at the entrances to inlets. BC Ferry "Northern Expedition"passed us on her way to Prince Rupert.  We recalled her predecessor "Queen of the North" that sunk when it crashed into Gil Island in the middle of the night in 2006.  Three members of the crew that were at the helm were fired and never to sail a ship again. They were accused of negligence when two of them left the helm because of some romantic entaglement.

We were tempted to stop and visit one of our favorite stops.  Namu, a former  BC Fish Packers Cannery. It was closed in the 1950's.  We have stopped many times to visit the caretakers that reside there now.  It was built on a former First Nation's Heiltsuk Tribe site that can trace in habitation for 10,000 years.  The bones removed from the site by Simon-Fraser University have been repatriated to scared grave sites.  If you look closely in the  foreground trees you can count 18 Bald Eagles.   

We pulled into Shearwater about 5pm.  We were tired and hungry !

 

We enjoyed a beautiful sunset after a great dinner at the Pub.

In the morning we came upon a Mural Artist in the process of painting  an historical  depiction  of renowned people of the area.  You never know what you are going to find in the wilderness !!!

Paul Ygartua has painted murals a the Expo 86 (UN Building), 2 at Chemainus, Cannes France, Gorliz Spain, and in many more locations.  He is also the artist who single handily painted the Beachcomber "Legends"mural in Surrey BC which with an area of 9000 square feet, is considered by the American website "AskART"to be the largest mural in the world painted by one artist.  Paul paints all of his murals single handily,  no graphs,  no projections,  no helpers.
It was an honor to watch him work!

The mural images represent important individuals that made a significant contribution to the historic founding of Bella Bella since the Hudson Bay Company established Fort McLoughlin trading post in 1833.  There has been native in habitation for 10,000 years in the area.

June 7, 2013 - Our Passage to Date Be sure to click "See Larger Map" then click on individual pins.

View Alaska Adventure Aboard Seventh Heaven in a larger map

Mosquitoes of the Pacific Northwest !

This photo was taken by Daniel after he successfully executed the nasty beast.
 Notice the length of her Proboscis.

I have shared the many wonderful experiences we have had  while cruising the Pacific Northwest. 

Now I must tell  you the bad news.  MOSQUITOES ! 

 I was attacked in Lund, BC.  I was outside at dusk in sandals without socks.  The perfect scenario for the blood thirsty evil flying demons. I received 13 bites on my ankles and feet. This insect is universally hated the world over.  These pesky, disease-carrying pests make a living by sucking the blood out of just about anything that moves.  Only the female mosquito feed on blood.  Though we commonly call them mosquito bites, she's not really biting you at all.  The mosquito pierces the upper layer of your skin with her proboscis, a straw like mouth part that allows her to drink fluids.  Once the proboscis breaks through the epidermis, the mosquito uses it to search for a blood vessel in the dermal layer underneath.  When she locates a vessel, the mosquito releases some of her saliva into the wound.  Mosquito saliva contains an anti-coagulant that keeps your blood flowing until she is finished with her meal.  Now you immune system realizes something is going on, and histamine is produced to combat the foreign substance.  The histamine reaches the area under attack, causing blood vessels there to swell.  It's the action of the histamine that causes the red bump, call a "Wheal".  But what about the itching?  When the blood vessels expand, nerves in the area become irritated by the swelling.  You feel this irritation as an itchy sensation.

I HATE MOSQUITOES ! 

May 30, 2013 Daniel's Arrival and Passage Around Cape Caution - 52 Nautical Mles

We are anxious to start our passage North. With Daniel's arrival we will untie our lines and set out for our adventure to Alaska.



Everyone we encounter is exceptionally kind. Steve the owner of the

Port McNeill Fuel Dock and Marina found out that Daniel was arriving at the Port Hardy Airport and loaned us his van (at no charge may I add).  It saved Daniel a $50 cab ride to Port McNeill.

We arrived in Port Hardy early and walked around town.

Daniel arrived aboard a Pacific Coastal prop plane.

After returning to Port McNeill our first stop was at the nearby  Coffee House for Daniel to complete some last minute business.

Louie was in a very good mood forgetting how to use  his chopsticks at the local Sushi  Place  where we had  dinner.

He was so happy to see Daniel he poured his beer into his Saki  cup.

The feast arrived and I think we ordered everything on the menu!

So much so we made the "Wall of Sushi Fame" We were immortalized  with a  photograph!

When we returned to the Marina a Mega Yacht had pulled in.

We thought the name was an invitation.  But we were wrong ! It's  dinghy's name is "Chaser".

In the morning we made preparations for our passage across  Queen Charlotte Strait.  Lou pumped out the rain water from the inflatable and we were on our way by 8 AM.

The weather was great and Daniel planned to make around Cape Caution.

The wind was calm and the ocean was flat.

I served a mid morning snack.

Louie enjoyed the sweet oranges

The clouds formed dramatic shapes as we entered the strait which is open to the ocean.

We must be vigilant at all times and watch for wood in the water.  Logs break loose from log booms being towed by tug boats.

CAPE CAUTION IS IN VIEW! The weather is so favorable that we will round the cape and find an anchorage in Smith Sound. 

As we approach Millbrooke Anchorage I see a mountain with a "Crown"like cloud adorning it's summit.

With his expertise we make into the protected "Hidey Hole"and will be safely anchored for the night!

Daniel navigates the treacherous entrance and at one point the depth sounder registers 2 ft. !

I begin to prepare dinner.  Fresh Spot Prawn Stir Fry.

Ginger and Soy Vey Stir Fry Sauce

Quinoa with Shallots and Almonds

Lots of Garlic and Celery

I think they liked it!