OLIVER COVE TO KLEMTU JULY 10TH

We basked in the wonderful sunlight after days of rain and clouds. Upon our departure from Oliver Cove Forever and Ever experienced some mechanical problems. With Gary's excellent skills he was able to repair the problem and in a couple of hours we were underway. We motored along Princess Royale Island hoping to see the sacred "Spirit Bear". This is the only place in the world where one can be seen. Puffy white clouds filled the sky forming imaginary mythical creatures and cherubic faces. The air was crisp and the water sparkled like a million diamonds under the white sun. It was a magical day. We entered the channel leading to Klemtu. The new cedar longhouse appeared as we passed the BC Ferry that arrives bi-weekly to bring visitors and supplies to the village. After docking the boats we spoke with Francis,an elder in the Kitasoo community who invited us to the new tribal longhouse where he shared wonderful legends and told us of the history of his tribe. He entertained us with stories, one in particular was why the raven walks as he does. I will never be able to look at a raven without thinking of this charming man. Arron, a young Kitasoo boy joined us and shared his stories of the Potlatches that are held in the longhouse. It was a wonderful experience. I later visited with a talented lady elder who wove traditional cedar baskets. She was grateful for my purchase of two lovely baskets and mentioned that she would now be able to go grocery shopping.

THIS IS THE FABLED "SPIRIT BEAR". IT IS A SUB-SPECIES OF THE BLACK BEAR AND ONLY IN THIS AREA OF THE WORLD ARE ONE IN TEN BORN WITH A WHITE COAT. THE KITASOO TRIBE BELIEVES THAT THE "CREATOR" WANTS TO REMIND US OF WHEN THE GREAT ICE COVERED THE EARTH WHEN THE WHITE SPIRIT BEAR APPEARS the s.
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WE MOTORED THROUGH OSCAR PASS. THIS IS NEAR PRINCESS ROYALE ISLAND HOME OF THE KERMODE BEAR OR "SPIRIT BEAR".
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SEVENTH HEAVEN PREPARES TO TIE UP AT THE KLEMTU DOCKS. THE NEW KITASOO LONG HOUSE IS A PROMINENT FEATURE OF THE FIRST NATION'S VILLAGE.
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FRANCIS IS AN ELDER OF THE "KITASOO" TRIBE. HE WAS A GRACIOUS HOST AND INVITED US INTO THE LONG HOUSE.
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OUR NEW FRIEND "AARON" WANDERED IN TO HELP SHARE STORIES OF THE RITUALS, LEGENDS AND DANCES OF HIS TRIBE.
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THE BEAUTIFUL INTERIOR OF KLEMTU'S NEW LONG HOUSE HOLDS THE MAJESTIC CARVINGS IN PRECIOUS YELLOW CEDAR.
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SHEARWATER TO OLIVER COVE JULY 9TH

We departed Codville at 8 AM for our next leg of the journey. We passed Bella Bella and decided to have lunch at Shearwater. We enjoyed the excellent food at the pub and bought some supplies at the nicely stocked store. We encountered a cruise ship and pulled out of the way to let her pass. We continued on through the rock infested Reid Passage to our next anchorage at Oliver Cove. We had traveled 38 miles and looked forward to our evening meal of "Spring Lamb Chops encrusted with garlic, herbs and Grey Poupon Mustard, fresh broccoli and a seasoned three rice pilaf.
We awakened to something we had not seen in awhile: "THE SUN!"

LOUIE FIGHTS WITH A GRIZZLY BEAR FOR HIS LUNCH AT SHEARWATER
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WE ENCOUNTER A CRUISE SHIP ON HER WAY TO ALASKA
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WE DINED ON A HEARTY MEAL OF MY HOMEMADE "ELK CHILLI" THAT WARMED OUR COLD BONES. IT SEEMED LIKE PERFECT NORTHWEST CUISINE.
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PRUTH TO CODVILLE LAGOON JULY 7 & 8, 2005

We proceeded up the Inside passage to the safe anchorage of Codville Lagoon. It was to blow 30 knots that evening and the rain continued. We followed "Forever and Ever" into the narrow passage and found a protected place to anchor. We dropped our prawn traps and snuggled in for the night. The next day the bad weather continued so we made the best of it and explored the lagoon in the rain. We found a young eagle still adorning his camouflaged feathers. He was honing his flying skills while mother looked on from a distant tree. His feathers were saturated and he lumbered to fly from tree to tree. We went ashore and hiked up a river that cascaded down a ravine in the high granite walls of the lagoon. When we returned to the boat we had a hearty meal of my homemade Elk chilli which seem appropriate for our cold and wet adventure.

DANIEL IS AT THE WHEEL AS WE FOLLOW FOREVER AND EVER THROUGH THE NARROW PASSAGE ENTERING CODVILLE LAGOON
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DANIEL AND I EXPLORE CODVILLE LAGOON IN THE RAIN
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THE YOUNG EAGLE STRUGGLES TO FLY IN THE RAIN
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A DRENCHED ADOLESCENT EAGLE ATTEMPTING TO DRY HIS WINGS IN THE RAIN
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PORT MCNEILL TO PRUTH BAY, JULY 6, 2005

Finally we had our weather window to cross Queen Charlotte Strait, round Cape Caution and sail Queen Charlotte Sound to the protection of the inside passage. It was raining, partially foggy and quite chilly. We had heard many stories of the fierce seas that can hit the Cape. It is a section that is exposed to the open ocean. This leg of our journey would be 85 miles to our anchorage at Pruth Bay.
We departed McNeill @ 5 AM and arrived at our destination at 4 PM.

DEPARTED PORT MCNEILL JULY 6 AT 5 AM. FIRST MATE "DAN" AT THE WHEEL FROM PORT MCNEILL, AROUND CAPE CAUTION TO PRUTH BAY
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ROUNDING THE INFAMOUS "CAPE CAUTION"
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FOREVER AND EVER AND SEVENTH HEAVEN ANCHORED IN PRUTH BAY JUST IN FRONT OF HAKAI
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"THE MOSQUITO TREE" SURPRISES YOU ON A HIKE TO THE WEST COAST!
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THE WHITE SANDY BEACHES OF THE WEST COAST OF PRUTH BAY
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HAKAI LODGE WAS ONCE OWNED BY JOHN WAYNE AND BING CROSBY AS A PRIVATE WILDERNESS FISHING LODGE
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DANIEL ARRIVES IN PORT HARDY DESPITE GALE FORCE WINDS

DANIEL ARRIVES IN PORT HARDY ON SUNDAY, JULY 2ND!
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GALE FORCE WINDS DELAYS SEVENTH HEAVEN AND FOREVER AND EVER

Gary and Dayle on Forever and Ever arrived on Sunday, July 3rd in Sointula after a 3 day voyage from Van Isle Marina in Sidney. The wind howled at 20 knots all night. Monday Forever and Ever docked here at Port McNeill. The weather forcast for Tuesday are winds on Queen Charlotte Strait 30 knots so we will stay another day in Port McNeill. The reports look better for Wednesday.

FOR NOW, ALL IS WELL!

We have recently encountered several problems which needed to be repaired that we have noted in previous posts. Our latest was with our Windlass.
While dropping the anchor Lou's foot slipped off the switch and the 110 lb. Bruce Anchor jerked to a sudden stop. This resulted in a bent shaft. Here in Port McNeill a repairman was able to have it straightened and reinstalled. Unfortunately, the washer / dryer in the bow had to be removed to access the Windlass.
We just heard that Bruce and Sailor on "Limelight" are experiencing Windlass motor problems. Good Luck with that and we hope all turns out well!

A VISIT TO ALERT BAY

Visiting Alert Bay can be a very emotional experience. Being a center of First Nation's Culture there is much history of the injustice to the native populations. The specter of the decaying "Residential School" is alive with the ghosts of the little children taken from the arms of their parents and incarcerated in these very walls. They were subject to emotional abuse by demeaning and outlawing their culture, cutting off their hair, forbidding their native language and traditions all in the name of "Christianity". They were subject to physical and sexual abuse by those that should have been protecting them. The effects of this cruel practice haunts many generations as the last the "schools" closed in the late 1980's For more information check this website:
http://archives.cbc.ca/IDD-1-70-692/disasters_tragedies/residential_schools/

The tradition of "The Potlach" is an ancient integral part of Native life. In 1884 "missionaries" recommended and succeeded in making it illegal to practice this most sacred ritual thus denying the Native people this important and essential part of their lives. The Natives went underground with their ceremonies and in 1921 the RCMP raided, arrested the participats and confiscated the treasures of the Potlach held on Village Island. In the 1980 the Native people succeeded in having their treasure returned to them. They can be seen in the U'Mista Cultural Center ironically next to the "Residental School" in Alert Bay.

THE WELCOME SIGN. ALERT BAY WAS ONCE AN ANCIENT NATIVE BURIAL GROUND WAS THEN SETTLED BY PIONEERS 1870. IT WAS THE LARGEST SETTLEMENT NORTH OF VANCOUVER AND A CENTER FOR TRADE, FISHING AND NATIVE CULTURE.
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TOTEM BEING CARVED IN ALERT BAY.
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THE SPECTOR OF THE "RESIDENTIAL SCHOOL" WHICH STANDS NEXT TO THE U'MISTA KWAKWAKA'WAKW FIRST NATIONS CULTURAL CENTER. IT WAS BUILT IN 1929 AND FINALLY TURNED OVER TO THE NATIVE PEOPLE IN 1973.

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TOTEMS OVERLOOKING VANCOUVER ISLAND FROM ALERT BAY U'MISTA CULTURAL CENTER
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TRADITIONAL EXTERIOR OF FIRST NATION'S BIG HOUSE WHICH HOUSES THE COLLECTIONS OF THE Kwakwaka�wakw First Nations PEOPLE.
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DETAIL OF CARVING ON THE EXTERIOR OF THE U'MISTA FIRST NATIONS MUSEUM IN ALERT BAY
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ITEMS PICTURED WERE RETURNED TO THE PEOPLE OF THE KWAKWAKA'WAKW FIRST NATIONS AFTER BEING CONFISCATED AT A POTLACH IN 1921 BY THE CANADIAN GOVERNMENT. THEY WERE RETRIEVED FROM CANADIAN, U. S. AND EUROPEAN MUSEUMS.
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