Oct. 5 - Roche Harbor, San Juan Island

It has been another wonderful summer and we have now returned to San Juan Island. Seventh Heaven will be moored here at Roche Harbor for the winter and we will return to our home across the island in Friday Harbor.

Sept. 20th - Back to Civilization! Vancouver BC

On September 13th we departed Blind Channel and anchored in Thurston Bay. In the morning we headed through the infamous Seymour Narrows at slack tide. We returned to our favorite Fisherman's Wharf Harbor in Campbell River. Phylis, the Harbor Master gave us the only remaining spot at the loading dock. The harbor was full of fish boats rafted three deep on every finger. I baked her an apple pastry for her kindness. The next morning we were off to Lund. From Lund we spent the night in Pender Harbor. The weather was good so the next day we headed for Howe Sound and found moorage at the Union Steamship Marina on Bowen Island. It was a real luxury at $1.50 a foot. We enjoyed a long shower in their newly renovated facility and had a great dinner at Tuscany's Italian Restaurant.

The sun shown through the Spinnakers of racing boats as we crossed Howe Sound.
The puffy white clouds rimmed the mountains and the brilliant blue water sparkled in the sun as we rounded Point Atkinson.
North Vancouver came into view with it's Lyons Gate Bridge connecting it to Stanley Park.
The skyline of Vancouver seemed to float on the horizon like a paper silhouette in the distance.
We entered English Bay and continued on the narrow waterway to False Creek passing by the wonderful Granville Market. Just on the other side of the Granville Bridge we found anchorage.
We anchored in a depth of 15 ft. with new high rises all around us.
Vancouver now has an permit system for anchoring in False Creek. This prevents derelict boats from lingering in the limited space in such a prime area.
Lou went ashore to obtain a permit and fell into the water while climbing over the many skiffs that were tied to the dock. He was soaking wet, cell phone,wallet and all!

We watched the sunset through the maze of masts at the nearby marina.

Sept. 11th - Heading South

Summer has slowly slipped away and in it's place are the sounds of migrating birds, the glimmer of gold in the Alders and salmon gathering at the mouth of a river to complete their circle of life.

It is time to head south!

We waited in Port McNeill for a storm to pass with heavy rain, 35 knot winds and even a bit of thunder. On Thursday we spent the afternoon with our friends Kathleen and Jim from Sointula, had dinner in Port Hardy and then said our "Farewells" until next summer. In the morning we departed Port McNeill with the idea that we would go as far as we could considering weather and current.

To our surprise the weather was magnificent! Smooth as glass most of the way.


The pictures are of Race Passage near Kelsey Bay. As we went through we saw a small pod of Orcas feeding along the shore.


The wind was just a bit different when Dante and Lou went through the same spot last month. For them it was 35 knots.


Today our speed over ground was 9.2 knots. Last month when Dante and Lou came through they were going 1.3 knots which is almost backwards.
Lesson: WAIT FOR A GOOD WEATHER WINDOW!

We pulled into Blind Channel at 7pm after traveling approximately 60 miles.

In the morning we awakened to a brilliantly clear day. The crowds are gone now and we have the dock at Blind Channel all to ourselves.
We have always enjoyed the artwork of Anna Marie Richter the matriarch of the family that has owned and operated Blind Channel since 1970. She has passed on now however her legacy is still here for us to enjoy. Her mosaics made of the treasures she found while beach combing adorn the docks. Her lovely paintings hang in the restaurant and her decorations are can be seen even in the laundry room.
We enjoyed a hike with the mascot of Blind Channel. His name is "Soup" and he appears to be very aloof until he sees someone on the trail. With that he takes over and leads us claiming and marking his territory all along the trail. He would stop and sniff the air just in case there might be a cougar or bear in the area.
At one point we could hear the blowing sounds of whale in the channel. Soup rose to the occasion and began barking with his hackles standing he paced up and down the beach protecting us from this monster in the deep! It was the first time ever that we had been "Saved from a whale!"
As we continued on our adventure Soup ran to our rescue. He start wildly barking and there before us was a "Giant Serpent!"
Just the mere sight of "Soup the Crusader" the serpent coiled into a tight ball fearing for it's life!

"Thank you Soup for saving us twice in one day!" We returned to the boat and Soup collapsed from exhaustion on the grass in the sun just where we had found him.
The water is so crystal clear that the bottom is visible as well as many types of seaweed.
This "Odd Couple" were attached to the dock. There are many types of anemones in the area.
We ventured into Cordero Channel in Wings. The water was so still it created this mirror like image.
Cormorants, Gulls, Terns and countless other birds skimmed across the water in front of us.
Hundreds of Terns swarmed in the air diving and feasting on a bait ball in the water.

Aug 28th - Orcas of Robson Bight

Farewell Dante and Deb! Our visit was filled with wonderful adventures, unforgetable experiences with the creatures of this magic place and the celebration of your 45th Birthday!

Dante and Deb's last request before their departure on the 29th was to go whale watching on Seventh Heaven hopefully to see Orcas. We listened to Channel 7 where the whale watching companies communicate locations as well as the conservators from the Robson Bight Ecological Reserve speak with each other. We headed for Johnstone Strait and found a pod of 15 Orcas.
We followed the pod all the way to Robson Bight keeping the proper distance as not to disturb these precious creatures.
Dante skillfully used his telephoto lens to capture the following photos.

We spotted a pod of 15 Orcas heading south on Johnstone Strait towards Robson Bight.

A playful baby and it's whole family swam close to the shoreline.

Another group from the pod swam in almost a "Military Formation".

We could hear the sounds of their breathing.

Their smooth black skin glistened in the light.

Two females and a large male protect the baby.

The baby loves to frolick in the water!
The male Orca with his tall dorsal finn glides along occasionally feeding on Salmon that are jumping all around.

Aug. 27th - Road Trip to Quatse Bay Hatchery

We returned to Port McNeill and that night the wind howled. In the morning there were white caps and it was blowing 20 knots. We decided we would take a road trip.

We visited the Quatse River Hatchery to see their progress from our last visit. These Salmon fry are ready to be released in the Quatse River. Each group of fry will be released in the river from which the female egg donor came from. In their 4 year cycle of life when they return from the ocean to spawn they will populate different rivers.

Here are some Pink Salmon that have returned to the Quatse River to spawn.
At the mouth of the Quatse thousands of Pink Salmon are retuning. As time goes on the various species of salmon will return to the Quatse.

Fisherman line the banks many of which catch and release the fish.

On the way back from Port Alice where we had dinner we stopped along the road to enjoy a lovely lake.
Lou enjoys the afternoon sun.

On the way back to the boat we stop to look at the "Worlds Largest Burl".

Aug. 26th - More White Sided Dolphins on the way to Village Island

As we departed Telegraph Cove we are greeted by another pod of White Sided Dolphins
They were jumping high out of the water. I was so fortunate to catch this shot!

We were amazed by their behavior!

They played and frolicked for over an hour.
After the dolphins moved on we continued to Village Island and the First Nations village of Mamalillikula. We dropped the hook in "Native Anchorage" nearby.
The village is abandoned.

The buildings are crumbling and the grounds are over grown with blackberries vines, grasses and weeds.
The old totem of a wolf and a bear is disappearing.
Is the belief of the Kwakwaka'wakw
that the poles return to the Earth from whence they came.
The wolf at the top of the pole is barely recognizable.

A serpent crawls along the pole.

The old village is inhabited by many Black Bears feasting on berries, apples, cherries and clover.

When I began to walk a trail through the overgrown berry vines I noticed evidence of bear scat. I decided it was time to return to the dinghy! The wind had come up a bit and the spray from the choppy water got us wet. We were happy to be aboard and headed for Port McNeill.

Aug. 25th - Knight Inlet to Queen Charlotte Strait

In the morning we departed Minstrel Island. The clouds played hide and seek

with the mountain tops.

As we entered Knight Inlet we saw the old sailing ship Providence heading towards Glendale with hopes of finding Grizzly Bears.

As we entered Queen Charlotte Strait, Dante went to the bow when he saw a large black dorsal fin in the distance.

He first sighted a large male Orca.

Soon a female appeared.

Then a mother and her baby.

They were traveling apart from one another not in the usual closeness of a pod.
Perhaps this "tail slapping" was to call the others together.

We were delighted to see this female going "head over heels"

This mail popped up right along side the boat!

He then dove away from the boat and we decided that he was as curious about us as we were about him.
He surfaced in the distance.

The family then joined up together and swam off into the distance.
We pulled into Telegraph Cove for the night.

Aug. 24th - Minstrel Island

We departed Kwatsi Bay and stopped into Bond Sound and Thompson Inlet hoping to see Grizzly Bears. We didn't see any because the salmon have not come up the rivers to spawn.
We arrived at Minstrel Island which is abandoned now.
The large building that housed the restaurant is gone.
We saw an eerie ghost hanging from a rope in one of the empty buildings.

We tied up to one of the docks. Lou asked a woman living in a small floathouse if anyone was in charge of the property. She said that it is abandoned and boats come and go at will.
An old sailing ship pulled in. She was 76 ft. not counting her bowsprit.
She was built in Holland in 1902. Her name is "Providence".
Lou talked with the captain and first mate. They live aboard and cruise the Pacific Northwest. We invited them aboard Seventh Heaven and exchanged stories. It was a very interesting visit to this once vital place. The community was named for minstrel shows performed by crew aboard the HMS Amethyst. For 75 years it boasted a busy community of loggers and commercial fishermen. It was a popular marina until about 5 years ago. The owner was eventually arrested for having a Marijuana Grow Op and is now in prison. It as been abandoned for several years.

Aug. 23rd - Kwatsi Bay and White Sided Dolphins

We headed up Tribune Channel to one of our favorite places Kwatsi Bay. This glacier carved inlet is shaped like a 2,000 ft. granite amphitheater with waterfalls cascading down the steep walls. The owners Anca, Max and their children Marike and Russell are wonderful!

At the entrance to Kwatsi Bay we encountered a pod of White Sided Dolphins herding fish into the bay.

When they saw Seventh Heaven they turned and followed us playing with the bow.

They played with us for an hour!

They rode the wake of our bow.

They jumped, rolled and then circled around to do it again.

We marveled at their speed and agility!

Aug. 21st. - Birthday at Echo Bay

We started celebrating Dante's 45th Birthday the night before with his favorite dinner of

home made Pepperoni Pizza.

On the day of his birthday we attended Pierre's Pig Roast.

The pig and all of the trimmings were delicious!

We returned to the boat for our traditional birthday cake which was slightly listing to one side because I baked underway. A great time was had by all.

HAPPY 45TH BIRTHDAY DANTE!!!

Aug. 20th - Aboard the "MV Lukwa"

Dante and Deb board the MV Lukwa from Telegraph Cove to whale watch.

Unfortunately, it was not in the cards to see Orcas but there were other creatures to be enjoyed.
The Lukwa's sister ship MV Gikumi is surprised by a large Humpback Whale!

This Humpback's fluke cascades water just before a deep dive.

This Humpback is fondly known as "Freckles" because of the white spots near it's dorsal fin.

Scars from an encounter with a propeller marks the hump on this whale's back.

Steller Seals cling to the rocks on Stubbs Island.

Gulls dive on a bait ball in Johnstone Strait.

Click to enlarge to see this young Bald Eagle's catch.

(Be sure to click the "Return Arrow" to return to the blog.)

Returning to Port McNeill we spotted this shy black bear along the roadside.

Aug. 18th - Back to Campbell River Then Return to Port McNeill

Our son Daniel departed from Campbell River on Aug. 10th. His 3 week visit with us was full of fun, adventure and great food. We will miss you Daniel!

Welcome son and daughter Dante and Deb! They joined us in Campbell River on Aug 15th.
Lou and Dante sailed Seventh Heaven from Campbell River to Port McNeill through opposing current and 35 knot winds. Their speed over ground was reduced to 1.8 knots at 3,000 RP M's at times. After anchoring in Port Neville for the night they were confronted with "Pea Soup" fog for the rest of the passage and at one point barely missing a tug in tow. The "tow" was visible on radar but not the "tug". Fortunately the fog cleared enough to see the tow line between the 2 vessels in time to avoid a collision!

Deb and I drove up Hwy 19 toward Port McNeill.
We stopped at an observation point at Seymour Narrows to watch Seventh Heaven pass through. They are the "white speck" on the photo heading northwest about 20 minutes early for slack tide.

As we continued up the highway we noticed the little village of Sayward. Sayward is located on Johnstone Strait, on the east coast of Vancouver Island just about one hour north of Campbell River and two hours south of Port Hardy, which is on the northern tip of the Island. Sayward is home to about 400 people and it's Kelsey Bay harbour and wharf is the only small craft harbour located on Johnstone Strait mid-way between Campbell River & Port McNeill.

The breakwater is made up of old ships that helps protect the small harbor from the fierce currents of Race Passage.

While there we decided to have lunch. Upon recommendation we found "The Cable House Restaurant". Below is the history written on the back of the menu.

Great way to recycle old logging cable!
Inside we enjoyed a wonderful late breakfast with fresh baked bread and cinnamon rolls.

What a find!

We continued up the highway and came upon the small village of "Woss".
As we explored we discovered the "Beaver Cove - Nimpkish - Woss - Vernon , BC - line about 56 miles long. Construction of the line began in 1917 by the Nimpkish Timber Company. Nimpkish Timber Company renamed Wood & English Logging in 1924. Beaver Cove Lumber & Pulp Company purchased in 1926 to form Canadian Forest Products.
Acquired by Western Forest Products and renamed

Englewood Railway of Western Forest Products in 2006.

The "Grey Ghost" with Engine #113 ran tourist excursions until a few years ago.
The passenger car stands empty with only the ghosts of the "Days gone by".

We pulled into Telegraph Cove to purchase Dante's birthday gift of a whale watching trip aboard the 60 foot (17 metre) vessel "MV Lukwa". Our timing was perfect as we walked to the end of the dock a pod of Orcas were passing. Males, females, aunts, uncles and several babies.It was MAGIC!

It was really a special day! As we left Telegraph Cove we noticed a black bear on the hillside.

The bear was feasting on Salal Berries.
They must have tasted really good because of this smile on it's face!
Just before we entered Hwy. 19 we encountered this mother and her twins.
Does it get any better than this?

Yes it does!
Along the Hwy to Port Hardy we saw this black bear enjoying a snack of clover.
"OK, you can take one more picture and that's it!"