Wednesday, June 29, 2005

THE UTOPIA OF SOINTULA

The 800 or so residents of Sointula (on Malcolm Island) are proud of their heritage - a socialist commune 1901 by a group of far-sighted Finns that wanted to create a "utopia". The name "Sointula" means "place of harmony" in the Finnish language.
Today the Island boasts a more diversified population, but still retains much of its founding philosophy and lifestyle. It is no cute, commercialized tourist trap. Instead, Sointula is genuine, from the commercial fishing boats in the harbour, to the oldest cooperative store in British Columbia, Canada, to the network of gravel roads that allow access to a natural wonderland.
Our dear friends Kathleen and Jim Blohm are new residents of the this unique community full of free thinkers and artist. We will keep up with their progress at their blog site: http://roughbay.blogspot.com.

THE FERRY TO SOINTULA FROM PORT MCNEILL
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NOTICE THE BRA FLYING ON THE SOINTULA FERRY DOCK PILING ON THE RIGHT SIDE (click on picture to make it larger). FREEDOM STILL EXITS!
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VIEW FROM KATHLEEN AND JIM'S NEW PROPERTY IN SOINTULA
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LOU AND KATHLEEN IN FRONT OF THE SOINTULA CO-OP WHICH IS THE OLDEST IN BRITISH COLUMBIA.
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OUR DEAR FRIEND KATHLEEN WHO IS A NEW RESIDENT OF SOINTULA.
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WILL YOU FIND THESE IN THE WINDOW OF TIFFANY'S?

You will not find these on the Fifth Avenue in New York! They are a necessary accessory up north in the wilderness. Attached to your belt loop "Bear Bells" make noise and therefore let the bears know that you are around. They really do not want to encounter you so making lots of noise gives them a chance to avoid you.
On the other hand one shopkeeper laughed and told me the Canadians call them
"Dinner Bells".

What real woman wear!
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Tuesday, June 28, 2005

LAGOON COVE TO MOUND ISLAND

We truly enjoyed our stay at Lagoon Cove and on our departure there was a bucket full crab and freshly picked oysters from Jeanne and Wayne who work there. We were very touched by their generosity. We decided that we would go to Mound Island and explore remains of an ancient Kwakwaka’wakw harvest habitation site. The beaches are white with the shells of thousands of years of the tribe eating barnacles and clams. We explored the mounds that give the island its’ name that are really the sides of their dwellings that have long since decayed. These mounds throughout the forest are made from the ash of countless fires with bone and shell remains that is referred to as a midden.
We hiked along the beaches at low tide amazed at the number of shell fish inhabiting the shore. A squirt of a submerged clam would startle us but not as much as the bear paw marks that indicated we had company. It looked as if the bear had been digging for clams as they often do at low tide. Upon our return to "Wings to Seventh Heaven"(the dinghy) we noticed a magnificent Bald Eagle flying over head.
We had lunch and then began our voyage to Port McNeill and Sointula.

Lagoon Cove after traditional "Happy Hour" where complimentary freshly caught prawns are served by owner. People from all the visiting boats bring additonal hors'douvres, beverages and stories about their adventures.
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Baby Swallows wait for mom to bring dinner. They have gotten so large they no longer fit in the nest in the background.
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Notice the extruded stomach of the giant starfish eating crab bait. The Dungeness looks on in the background.
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Seventh Heaven anchored while Lou and I explore the island.
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Eagle soaring over head.
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Ashore on Mound Island for a hike.
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Monday, June 27, 2005


Exploring Mound Island with Seventh Heaven anchored in the distance.
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Deep impressions in the ground mark the native dwelling sites of the Kwakwaka’wakw Tribe
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Saturday, June 25, 2005

Seymour Narrows to Lagoon Cove

We timed the narrows on an ebb tide and it was a sleigh ride reaching speeds of 12 knots at times. We felt very fortunate that "The Mysterious" noise did not reoccur! We reached Lagoon Cove in the Broughton archipelago by 3pm. We enjoyed the 5pm "Get together" and met some new interesting people and saw some old acquaintances. As usual the freshly caught prawns were provided by the Marina. There is no cell phone service or wireless internet here. Bill, the owner of Lagoon Cove has graciously provided internet for his guests to use.
We have been prawning and crabbing with some luck here. I was able to pick some fresh young Sea Asparagus and I am currently soaking it in fresh water to remove some of the salt. I will blanch it for 3 minutes and it will be ready to use in salads or as a vegetable which can be sauteed in virgin olive oil and garlic.
Tomorrow we will go to Mound Island and hunt for native trading beads.

Thursday, June 23, 2005

APRIL POINT LODGE JUST BEFORE SEYMOUR NARROWS

We arrived in Campbell River on Tuesday, June 21st for an appointment with a mechanic from "All Tech". He checked the alignment of the transmisson, the bolts on the flange and the adjustment that Louie had made to the altenator belt. He determinded that the combination of the slipping loose belt and the the loose bolts most likely was responsible for the mysterious noise and vibration. He suggested that we stay fairly close to Campbell River for a day or two just in case it reoccurrs. We moved from Coast Marinia to April point to be closer to the ebbing tide which occurs at 7AM tomorrow. We will continue north to Blind Channel and then the next day ride the Greenpoint Rapids and the Whirlpool Rapids to Johnstone Strait then up Havannah Channel, through Blow Hole to Lagoon Cove.
April Point is a lovely lodge. They have recently built a new spa on the waters edge.
We had lunch at the main dining room and loved it!

Lou on the beautiful grounds of April Point. In the background is the new Spa and beyond that is the tidal zone just before the infamous Seymour Narrows.
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Here's to you from beautiful April Point!
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ROUTE MAP: GIBSONS TO LUND
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OUR OVERNIGHT AT LUND

We stopped at Lund which is located at the very end of Hwy 101 north. You must drive inland after this point. It is a great stop with an historic hotel, good food and a great bakery. It was really interesting to watch the shrimp fleet which had 2 more weeks to make their fortune.No wonder prawns can get expensive when they become passengers on float planes.
We watched the eagles fish for their dinner and enjoyed the spectacular sunset.
The next day we departed for Gorge Harbor.

HARBOR AT LUND
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SUNSET IN LUND WITH A PASSING GOOSE
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THIS IS HOW NEPTUNE LOOKS WHEN HE COMES TO THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
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WE WATCHED WHILE THEY LOADED ABOUT 600 LBS. OF PRAWN ONTO A FLOAT PLANE
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PRAWNS FROM THE SHIMP BOAT: "MISS TAKEN" hmmm
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THERE ARE OVER 90 SPECIES OF STARFISHES ALONG THE B.C. COAST


PURPLE STARS COME OUT AT LOW TIDE
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YOU CAN'T EAT EVERYTHING YOU CATCH!
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CLIFF DRAWINGS OF THE KLAHOOSE BAND OF THE FIRST NATION COAST SALISH TRIBE

After the main villages of Toba Inlet were flooded in the 1800's the Klahoose Band made Cortes Island their permanent home. Pictographs often marked boundaries of hunting and fishing territories. They are usually on smooth light colored rock surfaces where the red pigment could be seen. The pigments were made from powdered minerals, hematite and limonite. Most are red in color. A binder of animal fat and fish eggs were added to make them adhere to rock surfaces. They were applied with sticks or fingers. Since the First Nations Tribes had no written language, this was a form of communication.
There are many wonderful sights throughout the British Columbia Coast.

PICTOGRAPH OF "MAN ON A WHALE" GORGE HARBOR ENTRANCE
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ANCIENT PICTOGRAPHS ON THE CLIFF AT THE ENTRANCE TO GORGE HARBOR
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Wednesday, June 22, 2005

A GIFT FROM AN EAGLE

There are few material possessions in this life that I want or require. I do have a list of things that would be wonderful to find such as: a glass fishing ball, a native trading bead and an eagle feather. On our way into to Gorge Harbor I noticed a lone eagle sitting on a small rock island at the entrance. He watched us as we passed and in my vivid imagination I felt as if he were beckoning me. In my mind I could hear native chants as we passed the ancient pictograph of the "Man Riding a Whale". It was a magical moment! When we returned an hour later to drop our prawn trap he was still in the same spot. I insisted that Louie take me to the rocks in the dinghy. As we quietly approached the island he flew right at us. I climbed up onto the highest point where he had been and noticed a regurgitated ball of small teeth, fur and bones. The down feathers from his preening were caught on the plants below where he had been perched. As my eyes searched the crevices I spotted it. A lovely eagle feather left behind as if it were a gift to me.

Tuesday, June 21, 2005


THE EAGLE BECKONS HER TO CLIMB THE ROCKS OF THE SMALL ISLAND AS THE BOAT PASSES
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THE EAGLE FLIES AT HER AS IF TO LET HER KNOW THAT HE HAS LEFT SOMETHING FOR HER
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THE EAGLE DISPLAYS HIS POWERFUL BEAUTY
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SHE RAISES THE FEATHER TO GIVE THANKS TO THE EAGLE FOR HIS GIFT!
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THE EAGLE FLIES INTO THE EVENING SKY
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THE SUN IS SETTING AS THE MOON RISES
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MOON RISE ON THIS MAGICAL NIGHT
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PERHAPS IT WAS HER ASSOCIATION WITH "THE INFAMOUS CRAB LOUIE" THAT MADE HER WHAT SHE HAS BECOME!

She was a kind and gentle soul. She wouldn't hurt a fly until she became acquainted with the infamous Crab Louie. Since then when she puts on her pink shrimper's hat and turns into a "Sensuous Sly Slaughterer of Shrimp (for short: SSSS the sound of a snake.) She can snap the head off of anything in a second and surely if you do not watch out, she will take yours off too!
After she beheads her victims she cooks them up in quite a stew.
A fine pair they are, wandering through the back eddies of the north committing their heinous deeds.

We have also made our own Canadian Wine from grapes of the Okanagon. The pasta in the picture was a Father's Day Feast for Louie. Fresh Dungeness Crab from Pender Harbor, prawns from Gorge Harbor (Is this why they call "Gorge Harbor?) in a sauce of
virgin olive oil, onions, garlic, capers and homemade wine. Yum!

SHE PREPARES HER WITCHE'S BREW
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WHEN SHE PUTS HER SHRIMPER'S HAT ON SHE BEGINS TO SNAP OFF THEIR HEADS!


WITH SHRIMPER'S HAT ON SHE SNAPS HEADS OFF!
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WITHOUT HAT SHE IS A KIND AND GENTLE SOUL
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Friday, June 17, 2005

A PURSUIT THROUGH THE PENDER HARBOR RAIN FOREST REVEALED THE LOCATION OF "CRAB LOUIE"


A pursuit through the Pender Harbor rainforest revealed the location of "Crab Louie.
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FUGITIVE CAPTURED, INCARCERATED IN COCKPIT AND SENTENCED TO A TERM OF LIFE "PICKING CRAB"


Fugitive was captured, encarcerated in cockpit and sentenced to a term of life "picking" crab.
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Thursday, June 16, 2005


Wanted poster created by Kathleen Blohm
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Please Check out Kathleen and Jim's Blog
http://roughbay.blogspot.com/

HEADLINE: "CRAB LOUIE STRIKES AGAIN!"

WARNING: "NO CRAB IS SAFE BETWEEN LATTITUDE 38 AND 56 DEGREES NORTH"
THIS ENEMEY OF THE:"Cancer magister" (commonly know as Dungeness Crab) WILL BE RELENTLESSLY STALKING ANYTHING WITH A CARAPACE (large shell of the back of a crab).
He deguises himself as a handsome Italian IBM retiree. BEWARE! HE IS FULLY ARMED WITH TRAP AND FLOAT. LAST SEEN IN PENDER HARBOR, BRITISH COLUMBIA.

REWARD OF A DOZEN FULLY CLEANED AND COOKED CRABS FOR INFORMATION LEADING TO THE CAPTURE OF THIS FUGITIVE.

http://www.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/zone/underwater_sous-marin/crab-crabe/crab-crabe_e.htm

For further information regarding who is at risk check this website.

HE BOASTS: "THERE IS MORE WHERE THIS CAME FROM!"


THERE IS MORE WHERE THIS CAME FROM!
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HE ENTICES: "WOULD YOU LIKE SOME CRAB, MY DEAR?"


WOULD YOU LIKE SOME CRAB MY DEAR?
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HE BOILS UP HIS VICTIMS!


COOKING UP THE CATCH
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HE SCANS THE WATERS LOOKING FOR PLACES TO DROP HIS TRAP!


LOU ENJOYING THE SCENERY
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ADVENTURES IN PENDER HARBOR!

The next leg of our journey takes us to "Pender Harbor" from Secret Cove. The wind was blowing about 12 knots on our stern. The Jib sail filled and we had a wonderful trip the entire way. The sun was shining and puffy white clouds filled the sky. We did not hear "the noise" but that does not mean it is gone.
Pender Harbor is beautiful natural protected harbor with many bays. We chose to dock at Garden Bay Marina. Our wireless internet is available along with a very good pub and well maintained docks. Louie dropped the crab trap and within an hour he caught one of the largest Dungeness crabs in his history of crabbing. We took the dinghy to a large well stocked grocery store and on our way back to the boat we pulled the crab trap again and found another huge Dungeness. We met a young Canadian man from Ontario. He had caught so many red rock crabs that he gave us four of them. The people we encounter are so wonderful!
After dinner we retired with anticipation of tomorrow's catch. If it continues, we may stay awhile!

OVER LOOKING PENDER HARBOR FROM THE DECK OF THE LOCAL PUB


OVERLOOKING PENDER HARBOR FROM THE DECK OF THE LOCAL PUB
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Wednesday, June 15, 2005

TWO VERY LARGE DUNGENESS!


TWO VERY LARGE DUNGENESS!
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RETURNING TO THE MOTHER SHIP


RETURNING TO THE MOTHER SHIP
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Bumming around Pender Harbor


Bumming around Pender Harbor

Bringing home the catch!


BRINGING HOME THE CATCH!
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Seventh Heaven


Seventh Heaven

An evening at "Secret Cove"

We departed Gibson's about 10 am and headed north. The infamous "sound" still plagues us. We will experiment by not using the "autopilot" to see if that could possibly be the problem. We put up the sails and moved along at about 6.5 knots. The five hours flew by as we soaked in the beauty of the coastline. We pulled in at "Secret Cove" and was greeted by the friendly staff.
Their restaurant was only open Friday - Monday but they recommended "Lord Jim's". A van picked us up and took us the short distance. The view was spectacular and as you can see from the pictures so was our dinner. We returned before sunset and went for a dinghy ride around the lovely cove. A lone eagle flew above us searching for an evening snack. The crimson and violet hues of the sunset reflected a mirror image of the sky in the water. A cry of a gull broke the silence. We returned to the boat and thanked "Neptune" for our wonderful day. We fell asleep to the gentle rocking of the boat.

Home made Vanilla ice cream with hot English Toffe and dark chocolate sauce


HOME MADE VANILLA ICE CREAM WITH HOT ENGLISH TOFFEE AND RICH DARK CHOCOLATE SAUCE
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