Cruising the Pacific Northwest in The San Juan Islands, Alaska and British Columbia,Canada

Spring 2010 - Spring Has Arrived in Friday Harbor!

2010-03-17T20:10:00.000-07:00

Spring Street is the main street in Friday Harbor. At the "Bitter End" is the harbor and ferry landing. In the distance you can see the arriving "Inter Island Ferry" that connects San Juan, Orcas, Lopez and Shaw Islands. There is also a ferry that departs once a day for Vancouver Island Canada.

Spring is early this year with the unusually warm weather.

Tender new leaves sprout from the Weeping Willows swaying in the gentle breeze.

This Tulip Tree bursted into bloom in the warm weather.

December 2009 - A Holiday Visit to Santa Cruz California

2010-03-17T03:47:00.000-07:00

Point Lobos at sunset is a spectacular sight. It is located just outside of the Golden Gate Bridge.

We are having Alaskan King Crab for Christmas Eve dinner in San Jose, California. We brought the crab from Friday Harbor, WA where our friend James who is an engineer on one of the Alaskan Crab boats from the Bering Sea featured on Discovery Channel's "Deadliest Catch".

The beaches in the Santa Cruz area are virtually abandoned during the winter months.

Sandpipers are free to hunt for sand fleas.

The weather is divine at Capitola Beach. We enjoy a piece of "Pizza My Heart" and enjoy the view.

A drive home along the coast route Hwy 1

Another incredible day by the many faces of the Pacific Ocean.

Individually, we are one drop. Together, we are an ocean. ~

December 2009 - Fraser River Valley, British Columbia, Canada

2009-12-01T02:05:00.000-08:00

In November, deep in the heart of Fraser River Valley in perhaps the most biologically diverse and important areas in British Columbia you will find North America’s third largest gathering of bald eagles.

The raptors are drawn to the area by the millions of spawning salmon that travel up the Fraser River to tributaries such as the Harrison River. At the peak there will be 1500 to 2000 Bald Eagles returning to feed on the salmon which are at the very end of their cycle of life. The estuary is also home to incredible wildlife such as trumpeter swans, ducks, seal, bear, coyote, deer and the great white sturgeon.

The bones are picked clean and the cycle of life is complete

November 2009 - Bumming Around San Juan Island

2009-11-16T22:10:00.000-08:00

From South Beach on San Juan Island you can see Mount Baker looming in the distance.

An Autumn colored fox hunts for food camouflaged by tall grass.

A young black fox is distracted from hunting in the fields of South Beach.

Another beautiful day in Paradise ends with a spectacular sunset over San Juan de Fuca Strait which is the border between Washington State and British Columbia, Canada.

Oct. 5 - Roche Harbor, San Juan Island

2009-10-08T10:47:00.000-07:00

It has been another wonderful summer and we have now returned to San Juan Island. Seventh Heaven will be moored here at Roche Harbor for the winter and we will return to our home across the island in Friday Harbor.

Sept. 20th - Back to Civilization! Vancouver BC

2009-09-29T01:46:00.000-07:00

On September 13th we departed Blind Channel and anchored in Thurston Bay. In the morning we headed through the infamous Seymour Narrows at slack tide. We returned to our favorite Fisherman's Wharf Harbor in Campbell River. Phylis, the Harbor Master gave us the only remaining spot at the loading dock. The harbor was full of fish boats rafted three deep on every finger. I baked her an apple pastry for her kindness. The next morning we were off to Lund. From Lund we spent the night in Pender Harbor. The weather was good so the next day we headed for Howe Sound and found moorage at the Union Steamship Marina on Bowen Island. It was a real luxury at $1.50 a foot. We enjoyed a long shower in their newly renovated facility and had a great dinner at Tuscany's Italian Restaurant.

The sun shown through the Spinnakers of racing boats as we crossed Howe Sound.
The puffy white clouds rimmed the mountains and the brilliant blue water sparkled in the sun as we rounded Point Atkinson.
North Vancouver came into view with it's Lyons Gate Bridge connecting it to Stanley Park.
The skyline of Vancouver seemed to float on the horizon like a paper silhouette in the distance.
We entered English Bay and continued on the narrow waterway to False Creek passing by the wonderful Granville Market. Just on the other side of the Granville Bridge we found anchorage.
We anchored in a depth of 15 ft. with new high rises all around us. We jump in Wings and go ashore to obtain our permit. We watch Seventh Heaven to make sure the anchor is holding.
Vancouver now has an permit system for anchoring in False Creek. This prevents derelict boats from lingering in the limited space in such a prime area. Seventh Heaven is the sailboat in the middle of this photo.
Lou went ashore to obtain a permit and fell into the water while climbing over the many skiffs that were tied to the dock. He was soaking wet, cell phone,wallet and all!

We watched the sunset through the maze of masts at the nearby marina.

Sept. 11th - Heading South

2009-09-11T21:57:00.000-07:00

Summer has slowly slipped away and in it's place are the sounds of migrating birds, the glimmer of gold in the Alders and salmon gathering at the mouth of a river to complete their circle of life.

It is time to head south!

We waited in Port McNeill for a storm to pass with heavy rain, 35 knot winds and even a bit of thunder. On Thursday we spent the afternoon with our friends Kathleen and Jim from Sointula, had dinner in Port Hardy and then said our "Farewells" until next summer. In the morning we departed Port McNeill with the idea that we would go as far as we could considering weather and current.

To our surprise the weather was magnificent! Smooth as glass most of the way.

The pictures are of Race Passage near Kelsey Bay. As we went through we saw a small pod of Orcas feeding along the shore.

The wind was just a bit different when Dante and Lou went through the same spot last month. For them it was 35 knots.

Today our speed over ground was 9.2 knots. Last month when Dante and Lou came through they were going 1.3 knots which is almost backwards.
Lesson: WAIT FOR A GOOD WEATHER WINDOW!

We pulled into Blind Channel at 7pm after traveling approximately 60 miles.

In the morning we awakened to a brilliantly clear day. The crowds are gone now and we have the dock at Blind Channel all to ourselves.
We have always enjoyed the artwork of Anna Marie Richter the matriarch of the family that has owned and operated Blind Channel since 1970. She has passed on now however her legacy is still here for us to enjoy. Her mosaics made of the treasures she found while beach combing adorn the docks. Her lovely paintings hang in the restaurant and her decorations are can be seen even in the laundry room.
We enjoyed a hike with the mascot of Blind Channel. His name is "Soup" and he appears to be very aloof until he sees someone on the trail. With that he takes over and leads us claiming and marking his territory all along the trail. He would stop and sniff the air just in case there might be a cougar or bear in the area.
At one point we could hear the blowing sounds of whale in the channel. Soup rose to the occasion and began barking with his hackles standing he paced up and down the beach protecting us from this monster in the deep! It was the first time ever that we had been "Saved from a whale!"
As we continued on our adventure Soup ran to our rescue. He start wildly barking and there before us was a "Giant Serpent!"
Just the mere sight of "Soup the Crusader" the serpent coiled into a tight ball fearing for it's life!

"Thank you Soup for saving us twice in one day!" We returned to the boat and Soup collapsed from exhaustion on the grass in the sun just where we had found him.
The water is so crystal clear that the bottom is visible as well as many types of seaweed.
This "Odd Couple" were attached to the dock. There are many types of anemones in the area.
We ventured into Cordero Channel in Wings. The water was so still it created this mirror like image.
Cormorants, Gulls, Terns and countless other birds skimmed across the water in front of us.
Hundreds of Terns swarmed in the air diving and feasting on a bait ball in the water.

Aug 28th - Orcas of Robson Bight

2009-09-01T03:15:00.000-07:00

Farewell Dante and Deb! Our visit was filled with wonderful adventures, unforgetable experiences with the creatures of this magic place and the celebration of your 45th Birthday!

Dante and Deb's last request before their departure on the 29th was to go whale watching on Seventh Heaven hopefully to see Orcas. We listened to Channel 7 where the whale watching companies communicate locations as well as the conservators from the Robson Bight Ecological Reserve speak with each other. We headed for Johnstone Strait and found a pod of 15 Orcas.
We followed the pod all the way to Robson Bight keeping the proper distance as not to disturb these precious creatures.
Dante skillfully used his telephoto lens to capture the following photos.

We spotted a pod of 15 Orcas heading south on Johnstone Strait towards Robson Bight.

A playful baby and it's whole family swam close to the shoreline.

Another group from the pod swam in almost a "Military Formation".

We could hear the sounds of their breathing.

Their smooth black skin glistened in the light.

Two females and a large male protect the baby.

The baby loves to frolick in the water!
The male Orca with his tall dorsal finn glides along occasionally feeding on Salmon that are jumping all around.

Aug. 27th - Road Trip to Quatse Bay Hatchery

2009-09-01T02:19:00.000-07:00

We returned to Port McNeill and that night the wind howled. In the morning there were white caps and it was blowing 20 knots. We decided we would take a road trip.

We visited the Quatse River Hatchery to see their progress from our last visit. These Salmon fry are ready to be released in the Quatse River. Each group of fry will be released in the river from which the female egg donor came from. In their 4 year cycle of life when they return from the ocean to spawn they will populate different rivers.

Here are some Pink Salmon that have returned to the Quatse River to spawn.
At the mouth of the Quatse thousands of Pink Salmon are retuning. As time goes on the various species of salmon will return to the Quatse.

Fisherman line the banks many of which catch and release the fish.

On the way back from Port Alice where we had dinner we stopped along the road to enjoy a lovely lake.
Lou enjoys the afternoon sun.

On the way back to the boat we stop to look at the "Worlds Largest Burl".

Aug. 26th - More White Sided Dolphins on the way to Village Island

2009-09-01T00:12:00.000-07:00

As we departed Telegraph Cove we are greeted by another pod of White Sided Dolphins
They were jumping high out of the water. I was so fortunate to catch this shot!

We were amazed by their behavior!

They played and frolicked for over an hour.
After the dolphins moved on we continued to Village Island and the First Nations village of Mamalillikula. We dropped the hook in "Native Anchorage" nearby.
The village is abandoned.

The buildings are crumbling and the grounds are over grown with blackberries vines, grasses and weeds.
The old totem of a wolf and a bear is disappearing.
Is the belief of the Kwakwaka'wakw
that the poles return to the Earth from whence they came.
The wolf at the top of the pole is barely recognizable.

A serpent crawls along the pole.

The old village is inhabited by many Black Bears feasting on berries, apples, cherries and clover.

When I began to walk a trail through the overgrown berry vines I noticed evidence of bear scat. I decided it was time to return to the dinghy! The wind had come up a bit and the spray from the choppy water got us wet. We were happy to be aboard and headed for Port McNeill.

Aug. 25th - Knight Inlet to Queen Charlotte Strait

2009-08-31T23:01:00.000-07:00

In the morning we departed Minstrel Island. The clouds played hide and seek

with the mountain tops.

As we entered Knight Inlet we saw the old sailing ship Providence heading towards Glendale with hopes of finding Grizzly Bears.

As we entered Queen Charlotte Strait, Dante went to the bow when he saw a large black dorsal fin in the distance.

He first sighted a large male Orca.

Soon a female appeared.

Then a mother and her baby.

They were traveling apart from one another not in the usual closeness of a pod.
Perhaps this "tail slapping" was to call the others together.

We were delighted to see this female going "head over heels"

This mail popped up right along side the boat!

He then dove away from the boat and we decided that he was as curious about us as we were about him.
He surfaced in the distance.

The family then joined up together and swam off into the distance.
We pulled into Telegraph Cove for the night.

Aug. 24th - Minstrel Island

2009-08-31T21:23:00.000-07:00

We departed Kwatsi Bay and stopped into Bond Sound and Thompson Inlet hoping to see Grizzly Bears. We didn't see any because the salmon have not come up the rivers to spawn.
We arrived at Minstrel Island which is abandoned now.
The large building that housed the restaurant is gone.
We saw an eerie ghost hanging from a rope in one of the empty buildings.

We tied up to one of the docks. Lou asked a woman living in a small floathouse if anyone was in charge of the property. She said that it is abandoned and boats come and go at will.
An old sailing ship pulled in. She was 76 ft. not counting her bowsprit.
She was built in Holland in 1902. Her name is "Providence".
Lou talked with the captain and first mate. They live aboard and cruise the Pacific Northwest. We invited them aboard Seventh Heaven and exchanged stories. It was a very interesting visit to this once vital place. The community was named for minstrel shows performed by crew aboard the HMS Amethyst. For 75 years it boasted a busy community of loggers and commercial fishermen. It was a popular marina until about 5 years ago. The owner was eventually arrested for having a Marijuana Grow Op and is now in prison. It as been abandoned for several years.

Aug. 23rd - Kwatsi Bay and White Sided Dolphins

2009-08-31T20:47:00.000-07:00

We headed up Tribune Channel to one of our favorite places Kwatsi Bay. This glacier carved inlet is shaped like a 2,000 ft. granite amphitheater with waterfalls cascading down the steep walls. The owners Anca, Max and their children Marike and Russell are wonderful!

At the entrance to Kwatsi Bay we encountered a pod of White Sided Dolphins herding fish into the bay.

When they saw Seventh Heaven they turned and followed us playing with the bow.

They played with us for an hour!

They rode the wake of our bow.

They jumped, rolled and then circled around to do it again.

We marveled at their speed and agility!

Aug. 21st. - Birthday at Echo Bay

2009-08-31T19:53:00.000-07:00

We started celebrating Dante's 45th Birthday the night before with his favorite dinner of

home made Pepperoni Pizza.

On the day of his birthday we attended Pierre's Pig Roast.

The pig and all of the trimmings were delicious!

We returned to the boat for our traditional birthday cake which was slightly listing to one side because I baked underway. A great time was had by all.

HAPPY 45TH BIRTHDAY DANTE!!!

Aug. 20th - Aboard the "MV Lukwa"

2009-08-31T17:25:00.000-07:00

Dante and Deb board the MV Lukwa from Telegraph Cove to whale watch.

Unfortunately, it was not in the cards to see Orcas but there were other creatures to be enjoyed.
The Lukwa's sister ship MV Gikumi is surprised by a large Humpback Whale!

This Humpback's fluke cascades water just before a deep dive.

This Humpback is fondly known as "Freckles" because of the white spots near it's dorsal fin.

Scars from an encounter with a propeller marks the hump on this whale's back.

Steller Seals cling to the rocks on Stubbs Island.

Gulls dive on a bait ball in Johnstone Strait.

Click to enlarge to see this young Bald Eagle's catch.

(Be sure to click the "Return Arrow" to return to the blog.)

Returning to Port McNeill we spotted this shy black bear along the roadside.

Aug. 18th - Back to Campbell River Then Return to Port McNeill

2009-08-31T15:02:00.000-07:00

Our son Daniel departed from Campbell River on Aug. 10th. His 3 week visit with us was full of fun, adventure and great food. We will miss you Daniel!

Welcome son and daughter Dante and Deb! They joined us in Campbell River on Aug 15th.
Lou and Dante sailed Seventh Heaven from Campbell River to Port McNeill through opposing current and 35 knot winds. Their speed over ground was reduced to 1.8 knots at 3,000 RP M's at times. After anchoring in Port Neville for the night they were confronted with "Pea Soup" fog for the rest of the passage and at one point barely missing a tug in tow. The "tow" was visible on radar but not the "tug". Fortunately the fog cleared enough to see the tow line between the 2 vessels in time to avoid a collision!

Deb and I drove up Hwy 19 toward Port McNeill.
We stopped at an observation point at Seymour Narrows to watch Seventh Heaven pass through. They are the "white speck" on the photo heading northwest about 20 minutes early for slack tide.

As we continued up the highway we noticed the little village of Sayward. Sayward is located on Johnstone Strait, on the east coast of Vancouver Island just about one hour north of Campbell River and two hours south of Port Hardy, which is on the northern tip of the Island. Sayward is home to about 400 people and it's Kelsey Bay harbour and wharf is the only small craft harbour located on Johnstone Strait mid-way between Campbell River & Port McNeill.

The breakwater is made up of old ships that helps protect the small harbor from the fierce currents of Race Passage.

While there we decided to have lunch. Upon recommendation we found "The Cable House Restaurant". Below is the history written on the back of the menu.

Great way to recycle old logging cable!
Inside we enjoyed a wonderful late breakfast with fresh baked bread and cinnamon rolls.

What a find!

We continued up the highway and came upon the small village of "Woss".
As we explored we discovered the "Beaver Cove - Nimpkish - Woss - Vernon , BC - line about 56 miles long. Construction of the line began in 1917 by the Nimpkish Timber Company. Nimpkish Timber Company renamed Wood & English Logging in 1924. Beaver Cove Lumber & Pulp Company purchased in 1926 to form Canadian Forest Products.
Acquired by Western Forest Products and renamed

Englewood Railway of Western Forest Products in 2006.

The "Grey Ghost" with Engine #113 ran tourist excursions until a few years ago.
The passenger car stands empty with only the ghosts of the "Days gone by".

We pulled into Telegraph Cove to purchase Dante's birthday gift of a whale watching trip aboard the 60 foot (17 metre) vessel "MV Lukwa". Our timing was perfect as we walked to the end of the dock a pod of Orcas were passing. Males, females, aunts, uncles and several babies.It was MAGIC!

It was really a special day! As we left Telegraph Cove we noticed a black bear on the hillside.

The bear was feasting on Salal Berries.
They must have tasted really good because of this smile on it's face!
Just before we entered Hwy. 19 we encountered this mother and her twins.
Does it get any better than this?

Yes it does!
Along the Hwy to Port Hardy we saw this black bear enjoying a snack of clover.
"OK, you can take one more picture and that's it!"

2009-08-02T19:08:00.000-07:00

HD Version available! Just click on the video to go to the YOUTUBE site and view in FULL HD.

Aug. 1st - The Pacific White Sided Dolphins of Wells Passage

2009-08-02T13:28:00.000-07:00

We encountered a pod of Pacific White Sided Dolphins as we cruised along Wells Passage in The Broughton Archipelago. They love to play in the wake of the bow.
Their speed is lightening fast and they have been clocked at 25 miles per our. The max hull speed of Seventh Heaven is 8 knots.
They love to swim upside down and it doesn't slow them down a bit!
I love to see them jump out of the water!

This appeared to be a family teaching their little one to swim fast!
They love to frolic and play.
Sometimes they surface just enough for their "blow holes" to take a breath.
Their speed is remarkable they can keep up with the boat with ease. As I hung over the bow professing my love for them, one rolled to the side and we had "eye to eye contact"!

Just as they appeared out of nowhere they disappeared into labyrinth of water ways playing and of course eating the many schools of small Herring and Squid.

July 31st - Sullivan Bay

2009-08-01T19:57:00.000-07:00

We departed Port Hardy, crossed Queen Charlotte Strait and entered Wells Passage. The water was churning with a giant bait ball hundreds of birds were circling and diving devouring the small fish in a glutinous frenzy. We had not been to Sullivan Bay in years and since then there have many improvements. New docks, a restaurant and a fresh coat of paint on the old float house buildings create a great atmosphere.

The float home owners got together and purchased Sullivan Bay. It is great to see that these unique places in the Brougtons are being restored.

This is one of the original float houses that was part of a floating village of loggers. The entire community could be hooked up to a tug and taken to the next inlet where the forest was being logged.

Everything is done by boat. Supplies brought over Queen Charlotte Strait from Port Hardy are being delivered to the store, restaurant and float homes. The entire community joins in to unload.

This resident can fly over to Vancouver Island on his own to get supplies. Just go up on your roof and fly away in your personal Helicopter!

July 31st - Shawl Bay

2009-08-01T02:27:00.000-07:00

Shawl Bay is another delightful marina in the Broughtons. It is a collection of old float houses. Every morning Lorne, Shawn and their son Robert serve a free Pancake breakfast to all of their guests.
Carol "The Bead Lady" has her shop at Shawl Bay with her lovely handmade jewelry as well as pieces from local artists. One of her trademarks are exquisite hand beaded hummingbirds. It is always a pleasure to visit with her and to see her lovely work!
When you hang the Humming Bird in a window the light shines through the luminescent beads.
I purchased the adorable Octopus bead from Carol and we added four of my "Russian Blue Trade Beads" I have collected along the way. The faceted blue beads were shipped to Alaska and down the coast and into the North American “Northwest”. They appeared in Alaska just prior to the 1870’s. They were popularly traded during the fur trade era. The glass beads are known for their numerous and irregular facets, and blue coloring; transparent and opaque. There are deviations in the number of facets on the face of the bead.

This is one of many interesting buildings at Shawl Bay. It is like a step back in time!

July 29th - Louie's 72nd Birthday!

2009-07-29T03:17:00.000-07:00

We celebrated Louie's birthday in Port Hardy. I made him one of his favorite dinners:

Cannelloni Bolognese

Broccoli with Prosciutto

Chocolate Birthday Cake

His Birthday dinner was complimented with a bottle of

"1993 Dom Perignon Champagne" a gift from

The Van Hamersfelds in Friday Harbor.

Just down the dock from our boat is "Cod Father Fishing Charters".

This huge Salmon was caught by a woman!

Cuisine of Seventh Heaven

2009-07-25T02:22:00.000-07:00

Daniel the Sushi Master with his "Magic Knife" will prepare:
Fresh Crab California Roll
Ingredients include:
Brown Rice
Fresh Dungeness Crab
Avocado
Cucumber
Sesame Seeds
Cashews
Sushi Nori Roasted Seaweed Sheets
Soy Sauce
Wasabi

Sushi Master spreads Brown Rice on Seaweed.

He places other ingredients in roll.

He sprinkles Sesame Seeds.

He rolls the Sushi.
Rolls are cut into bite size pieces.
We have a Sushi feast in the cockpit of Seventh Heaven in the middle of the wilderness.

Pepperoni Pizza
Ingredients include:
Fresh Baked Whole Wheat Crust
Homemade Pizza Sauce
Pepperoni
Oregano
Toasted Garlic
Shredded Mozzarella Cheese
Bake Pizza until crust is crisp and cheese is melted.
Here is the Infamous Crab Louie Supplying our Fresh Crab and Prawns
Fresh White Spot Prawns
Fresh Dungeness Crab
Italian Baby Clams
Whole Wheat Barilla Pasta
Garlic and White Wine

MANGIA! MANGIA!

Fresh Caught White Spot Prawns
Steamed in Canadian Beer with Garlic
and
Red Pepper Flake
Served with Seafood Sauce
Fresh Coho Salmon.

Fresh Rock Cod and Coho Salmon ready to poach for Salmon Cakes

Add:

White Wine

Garlic

Salt and Pepper

Poach in Oven

Do Not Over Cook

Add:
Poached Salmon and Rock Cod
Eggs
Seasoned Bread Crumb
Capers
Black Pepper
Red Pepper Flake
Saute in Olive Oil
Serve with Plum SauceFresh Baked Sugarless Apple Pie
Fresh Baked Cream Cheese Raspberry and Pear Pastry.

Fresh Fruit Tart

Ingredients include:
Fresh Baked Pie Crust
Sugarless Vanilla Pudding
1 Pear
1 Banana
Fresh Raspberries
Fresh Blueberries
Line baked crust with sliced banana.
Spread sugarless vanilla pudding over banana.
Slice pear and arrange in circle
Add raspberries and blueberries
Chill

July 24th - Roscoe Inlet

2009-07-24T00:20:00.000-07:00

The granite walls reach 3,000 feet as we continue deeper into Roscoe Inlet.

First Nation's "Heiltsuk" also known as "Bella Bella" inhabited Roscoe Inlet and surrounding area. Pictographs decorate the granite walls depicting fish, stick figures and canoes.
We find another pictograph as we proceed up the inlet.
Signs of glaciation are scraped into the granite walls.
Glaciated valleys are similar to those in Yosemite in California.
Pieces of granite crack and break off the steep walls.
The inlet is lined with wonderful valleys.
Rugged granite peaks scraped clean by glaciers of the last ice age 15,000 years ago.
The last of the melting snow create water falls in the 90 degree heat wave.
At last the "Bitter End" of the inlet. We decided not to anchor due to the heat and the swarms of Black Flies. The only relief from the heat was to keep moving. We decided to head south to Codville Lagoon.
When we arrive at Codville Lagoon we find the popular anchorages are already taken. Daniel and Louie have to get creative and we find a spot where we will stern tie.
Louie uses our new "Stern Tie" reel that was given to us from our friend Ken Whelan. We are secure for the night and in the morning we will continue south around Cape Caution to our familiar anchorage in Allison Cove.

ATTACK OF THE BLACK FLIES!

2009-07-23T23:10:00.000-07:00

There is a price one must pay to enjoy the beauty of the remote wilderness of British Columbia. It is the Black Fly, insect belonging to order Diptera, family Simuliidae. Black flies occur nearly anywhere that rivers and streams are present for immature stages, including arctic regions, and are especially abundant in northern wooded regions. Larvae live in flowing water, gathering fine particulate food by straining the water with their head fans. Larvae attach to rocks or vegetation and complete development in 3-14 days, depending on water temperatures and availability of food. Pupae are inactive and do not feed. Adults may emerge from any water depth, floating upward in a bubble of air generated during emergence. They are ready to fly when they break the surface. Average life span is about 3 weeks.
In Canada, black flies cause human suffering and are a scourge to livestock. In Northern Alberta, weight loss in cattle caused by the black fly attacks in one outbreak (1971) amounted to 45 kg per animal; 973 animals were killed in one area alone. Black flies are a nuisance to humans. For example, forest workers in northern BC and Québec demand black fly control as part of their work contract. Females have biting mouth parts with toothed stylets for cutting skin. Males do not bite and are rarely observed. Both sexes require nectar for flight energy; females use blood for egg development.

Because of the unusually high temperature in the last week there were huge amounts of black flies in the area. They are tenacious and bite through your clothing. This photo is taken on Daniel's electric fly swatter that he calls "Old Sparky" named after the electric chair in a New York prison.
This is another corpse killed by Daniel out of revenge for the 28 bites he has endured!
Notice the cutting teeth on her mouth that she uses to take chunks of flesh!

July 23rd - Namu

2009-07-23T21:40:00.000-07:00

Namu has always been one of our favorite stops. Rene, Teresa and Peter welcome us with their wonderful hospitality. They are the caretakers at this historic abandoned cannery. Unfortunately, the future hangs in the balance. The owner has stopped supplying fuel both for the generators that supply power to the caretakers and at the fuel dock that supplies commercial and pleasure fish boats. Attempts at restoring Namu into a resort have failed and the future is unknown. It could be closed for good.

We tied up next to "Temple Rock" and its new owner. We were dock mates with the previous owner at Van Isle Marina. We had a great visit with our pals.
As the sun set we caught 3 nice rock cod within 10 minutes. Eagles soared over our heads and we could hear blows from whales out in Burke Channel. The sound came closer and closer to our little inflatable. Then it happened, just 50 yards from the boat a Humpback Whale surfaced. Our faces flushed with sheer joy as well as fear. The whale swam over to a small island behind us then surfaced and pointed right at us. It blew and dove as we stared at one another waiting to be consumed like "Jonah" or dumped into the frigid water. In a minute or so (seemed like hours) we saw the whale surface once again entering the main channel and concluded that it had swam under our boat. The depth of the water was about 45 feet. We returned to Seventh Heaven feeling just a little bit closer to this wonderful paradise!
Louie removed my rock cod from the hook.
In the morning we headed north to our destination of Shearwater.
At the mouth of Burke Channel we encountered Humpback Whales "tail slapping". Their giant bodies lunging out of the water and then slapping the water with their flukes.
It is not quite known why they do this. Researchers have speculated that it is used by the males to either attract females or it is an aggressive posture to ward off other males.
This Humpback is taking a deep dive.
Their flukes appear when they dive deep below the surface of the water.
Before they dive they take several big breaths creating "blows".

July 22nd - Fury Cove

2009-07-22T15:00:00.000-07:00

We departed Port Hardy and crossed Queen Charlotte Strait and then into Queen Charlotte Sound which is open to the Pacific Ocean. We were taking swells on the beam of the boat until we turned into Allison Cove to anchor for the night. In the morning we headed around Cape Caution and into the protection of the Inside Passage again in Fitzhugh Sound. We anchored in beautiful Fury Cove for the night.

One can see evidence of the high tide line on the brilliant white shell midden along Fury Cove. This area is an ancient First Nation's site where clams, oysters and barnacles were harvested.
There is evidence of 10,000 years of inhabitation in the region

Daniel and I explored the labyrinth of small coves and discovered a clear landing site to the midden. Natives would clear a beach of rocks to land their canoes.

The water is cold and clear showing a deep teal color.

We landed wings on another section of the huge midden.

Seventh Heaven is anchored in a protected cove nearby.

I collected these large barnacle shells on the beach.

July 17th - Daniel's Arrival and Filomi Days in Port Hardy

2009-07-21T08:57:00.000-07:00

Daniel arrived in Victoria on July 17th and then boarded a ferry from Swartz Bay to Tswassen on the mainland of BC. When he arrived he then boarded another ferry to Nanaimo at Duke Point on Vancouver Island criss-crossing the inside passage. We rented a car from Port Hardy and drove to Nanaimo to pick him up. We returned to Port McNeill and in the morning Daniel and Louie sailed to Port Hardy while I returned the rental car and met them at Quarterdeck Marina. I took the photo from the dock as they arrived.

Port Hardy has a annual celebration called Filomi Days. It honors the 3 main contributors to their economy:

"Fi" for fishing - "Lo" for logging - "Mi" for mining - and thus we have Filomi Days!

Unfortunately because of "over fishing" in the past, the industry is highly regulated and seasonal openings are fewer and less time for commercial fishing. Logging is down because the United States imposed huge illegal tariffs on the soft wood industry coming into the U. S. during the Bush administration and after litigation refused to pay British Columbia back. The paper industry has also been deeply affected due to the decline of printed newspapers around the world. Mining has disappeared due to the exploitation of natural resources such as copper, silver and gold.

But . . . . the people of Port Hardy celebrate anyway. These "salt of the earth" hardworking people will not let the economical problems get them down. The celebration included a parade, games, music and food in the park all topped off with a wonderful fireworks display.

Let's put an end to Polio and immunize children again!

Men on stilts throw candy to the crowd!

Big earth movers from the mining industry rumble the ground as they pass.

Shinning fire trucks delight the children as their sirens scream with excitement!

An ambulance pulls a little patient on a stretcher as she throws candy to the crowd.

This beautiful little girls exercises patience as she is transformed into a "Kitty Kat"

Children frolic in plastic bubbles as they bounce and roll in a large plastic swimming pool!

This darling Kwakwaka'wakw First Nation's boy and his dad pose for a picture. The little boy and I became instant friends as he followed me asking me to take his picture.

This little guy saw him and wanted his picture too! He even removed his glasses so I could see the details of his painted face.

These First Nation's kids were having fun climbing on this huge old anchor. I so enjoyed the authenticity of this community. No frills just great people having a good time!

The Entrepreneurial Spirit of Rebecca Sears

2009-07-20T23:11:00.000-07:00

Last evening while docked at Quarterdeck Marina in Port Hardy, a lovely young women came by our boat and handed us her card:

"Port Hardy Laundry Service"

Rebecca Sears

250 949-5141

Pick up and delivery

"We launder everything but money"

Port Hardy has a private marina as well as a large public dock with a mixture of pleasure boats, fish boats, prawn boats, tug boats and charter boats of all shapes and sizes full of fisherman, families and people like me that hate to do laundry at a "Laundromat".

Rebecca wanted to create a home business so that she could be home with her son.

She picks up the laundry washes, drys, folds and then delivers to your boat within the same day for a very reasonable price. What a wonderful idea! So if you are ever in Port Hardy do yourself a favor and give Rebecca a call!

July 13 - There Are Wonderful People in This World!

2009-07-14T13:26:00.000-07:00

PLEASE, read this story and it will warm your heart!
There are some pretty wonderful people in the world and a lot of them are here in Canada!
Lou and I have spent the last week exploring the Broughton Archipelago while we wait for our son Daniel to arrive for our voyage around Vancouver Island.
On the last leg of our passage back to Port McNeill to retrieve my "lost camera" left in a grocery store, we anchored in a familiar place called "Potts Lagoon". When we arrived in the late afternoon we found about 7 boats anchored in the small lagoon as well as numerous commercial crab traps. Commercial crab traps are attached to a continuous line with a float attached to each trap with as many of 20 traps per line. Needless to say this can create a quagmire beneath the surface especially at low tide in shallow water. We were in such a position and thus snagged a line around our shaft and propeller. We were able to cut and untangle the line enough to get underway but it was evident that there was still some line attached indicated by a rubbing sound and a bit of vibration at higher RP M's.
When we limped into Port McNeill we were greeted with the familiar faces of the two gals that run the dock. I asked if they knew of a diver that could take a look at our problem. They recommended someone living in a blue float house on "X" dock.
We were just about to leave to hunt him down when a handsome young man approached the boat and asked if we needed a diver. We told him our tale of woe and he offered to take a look.
I asked what he charged and he said he didn't. He returned to a boat just across the dock and suited up in his diving gear.
On my way to "Super Value Grocery Store" to check on my lost camera I asked what kind of beer he drank and he said he didn't drink.

Meet "Dave" our Hero!
He dove into the frigid water out of the kindness of his heart and untangled the remaining line then removed a piece that had fused to the shaft from the heat of the friction against the propeller. He had just overheard us when we pulled in and volunteered to help us! He was not the diver from the blue float house on X dock.

This piece fused into a solid ring.

This is the remaining tangled line removed from the shaft.

READ ON IT GETS BETTER!
Dave is in the Canadian Air Force and Helicopter Navigator. He lives aboard his boat "Making Waves" between deployments. In two weeks he will be sent to AFGHANISTAN! We asked him to join us for dinner at a local restaurant. He entertained us with his world wide adventures and especially his interesting experiences in the Middle East as he has been in the Canadian Air Force for about 20 years. We came back to Seventh Heaven and chatted until 12:30 AM.
In the morning about 11am I wanted to invite him over for a Latte and just as he appeared out of nowhere he was gone. His slip was empty . . . .
"Dave, wherever you are we wish you well!
We Thank You for your kindness!
Be safe in all you do and may the "Force" be with you!
We look forward to seeing you again soon!

As if that is not enough kindness for one day, I returned to the grocery store where they cheerfully returned my precious camera and "Thanked me for shopping there!"
"Why do we love Canada? Let us count the ways!!!"

Black Bears of the Port Hardy Region

2009-07-05T15:01:00.000-07:00

"Since Goldy Locks ate all my porridge, I have to eat this damn clover!"

"It's not easy being a bear . . ."

"I wonder what they taste like?"

(I snapped these photos from along side the road. We often see black bears on the road to Port Hardy)

July 4th - A Fascinating Trip to Fort Rupert

2009-07-05T05:50:00.000-07:00

We rented this 2009 VW Beetle to do some exploring by land.

This is a historical picture of the Hudson Bay Company's Fort Rupert built 1849. It served as a trading post as well as a base for workers in the nearby coal mines. Kwakiutl First Nation's people had inhabited this area for over 9,000 years.

Fort Rupert was destroyed by fire in 1890.

This chimney is all that remains of the fort today.

The present area of Fort Rupert village was the site of an enormous bank of clam shells called a "Midden" , two miles long, half a mile wide and fifty feet high. The shells were the last vestiges of enormous feasts held here for generations and they came to play a part in local history in World War II when they were used to level the airport nearby. Today, there is no such evidence of a Midden just a few scattered clam shells. Middens are now considered archaeological sites protected under British Columbia law, and may not be disturbed.

We located the site of the ancient petroglyphs carved into sandstone by the Kwakiutl.

There many mystical faces carved in the rock.

No one is really sure of the meaning of the carvings and one can only speculate that this might be a ceremonial figure.

The carvings could represent spiritual figures.

Perhaps they could represent the dead from the world beyond.

There are moon and sun like shapes.

Some appear to skeleton heads.

The high tide covers the petroglyphs therefore they are only visible at low tide.

In the small village there is an historic cemetery.

This remarkable "Big House" is the center of the community.

The Elementary School is decorated with traditional impressions of eagles, a frog, a bear and a happy child's face.

Art of the Copper Maker - Fort Rupert

2009-07-05T05:00:00.000-07:00

We are very fortunate to have visited with Calvin Hunt, master carver, and his "Copper Maker" studio in Fort Rupert. He was so very gracious to explain the process of carving and decorating the canoe he is working on as well as the other art pieces in his studio. He considered to be one of the foremost artists of the Northwest Coast. His First Nations art works, have been sent to places around the globe, such as Germany, Japan, Australia, China, Scotland, and throughout North America.
Check out his web site: http://www.calvinhunt.com/

His colorful workshop is full of the many works of art he is creating.

There are many individual pieces being worked on and will later be assembled on a 40 ft. ceremonial canoe.

A self portrait watches over Calvin's workshop.

The tools of the carver's trade adorn the walls of the workshop.

This glorious "Whale Tale" is a commission from Victoria.

Calvin explains to us his technique for making a dorsal fin to adorn the adorn the canoe he is carving.

This magnificent canoe is waiting for the completion of the bow carving.

The shape of the hull is "Tlingit" in design from Alaska and will be used to race in ceremonial events.

Calvin was adding a mast to this canoe.

A work in process.

A colorful detail on a 22 ft. canoe.

July 4th - "Just for the Halibut" Port Hardy Docks

2009-07-05T04:17:00.000-07:00

These Halibut fisherman wait in line to clean their catch.

These two weight about 75 lbs. each.

This one is closer to 90 lbs.

Some lucky person will have these fresh delicious fillets for dinner!

July 3rd - The Infamous Past of Coal Harbour

2009-07-05T03:50:00.000-07:00

Coal Harbor is a quiet little fishing and Eco-tourism hamlet with a population of about 200. However, it has had quite the infamous past. It borders Holberg Inlet off of Quatsino Sound which opens to the Pacific on the west side of Vancouver Island. In the late 1800's there were both coal and copper mines nearby. During World War II there was a Royal Canadian Air Force Base which operated a sea plane reconnaissance station. It was responsible for off-shore surveillance flights searching for Japanese submarines. The only recorded intrusion arrived onshore in 1945, when an incendiary balloon landed in the forest near Holberg Inlet, one of thousands of balloons released by the Japanese with the intention of starting forest fires and sowing panic among the West Coast population. When the war ended the base closed.

We purchased these delicious large White Spot Prawns from a local prawner docked at the wharf for $10 a pound Canadian.

The only store in the area is called: "Lucky Louie's" and lucky we were to find a cold drink on such a warm day.

We also found out that there is a whole series of fishing lures named after
"Lucky Louie!"

The 20 ft. high Blue Whale Jawbones, the largest of the whale family, are a reminder of the communities whaling past. If you can imagine just the jaws on this magnificent mammal would be equal to a two story building. In 1948, the Western Whaling Corporation began operating a whaling processing plant in some of the WW II buildings. Bought out by B.C. Packers Limited in 1949, the whaling fleet eventually grew to six vessels. The whaling season ran from April until September however, the operation was not a profitable one. From 1950 until 1957, the company killed and processed over 4,000 whales and lost over a million dollars.
During the 1960’s the whaling station was revitalized by a partnership of B.C. Packers and the Taiyo Gyogyo Company of Japan. An emphasis was placed on whale meat and 85% of the production was exported mostly for human consumption.

By 1964, only two ships remained in operation. It was the last whaling station in British Columbia when it closed in 1967 and the brutal slaughtering of these magnificent creatures ended here.

At one time, before closure and its filling with sea water, it was the deepest depression in the face of the earth. Although not as impressive as when one was able to look down into a cavity – 7,900 feet long, 3,500 feet wide and 1,320 feet deep – it is still awesome to see from the air.
The Utah/Island Copper Mine that operated from 1971-1995, on the shores of Quatsino Inlet’s Rupert Arm, near Coal Harbor was a mine of immense physical and fiscal proportion. Thousands of people worked there over the years with 900 working there at its peak in 1980. Even at closure, 450 employees worked here.
The mine produced 1,360,000 tons of copper, 1.1 million ounces of gold and 11.6 million ounces of silver, as well as 34,800 tons of molybdenum and 62,000 pounds of rhenium – whatever that is?

This is a photo of the pit filled with sea water.

July 2nd - Telegraph Cove

2009-07-04T03:51:00.000-07:00

The historic community of Telegraph Cove was established between 1911-12 during the building of the telegraph line from Campbell River and is one of the last boardwalk communities remaining in British Columbia, Canada.

Telegraph Cove has a rich and entertaining history, having been home to a lumber mill, and a chum salmon saltery and cannery after serving as a relay station during World War II. Many of the buildings have now been restored. There is also a marina for small fish boats as well as a camp ground.

You can stroll along the boardwalk past the historic buildings. There is a pub, coffee house and a whale bone museum.

The relics of days gone by line the boardwalk.

Beaver Cove Wet Log Sorting Facility

2009-07-02T03:15:00.000-07:00

Along Johnstone Strait between Alert Bay and Telegraph cove there is a huge Wet Log Sorting Facility.

This is an example of British Columbia's declining soft wood industry partly due to illegal tariffs placed on wood products by the Bush Administration coming into the U. S. There was no activity and the facility appeared to be closed.

Canadian Forest Products bought the property and in the early 1950s began construction on the railway that connects the Nimpkish Lake area with the coast. Crown Zellerbach, which had bought Beaver Cove from Canadian Forest Products in 1946, moved the settlement up the hill to Kokish and cleared the waterfront at the end of the rail line to create the flat log-sorting area visible today to anyone coming in by road.

The Nimpkish line is significant due to Locomotive 112, a 135-ton monster that hauled logs as late as 1971, making it probably the last working logging locomotive in North America.

Port Alice by Car

2009-07-02T02:07:00.000-07:00

Port Alice's main economic history dates back to 1917 when a series of pulp mills were built utilizing the transportation link of the ocean, the large supply of wood fibre plus the abundance of fresh water found in the area. The pulp mill was the main employer and operated up until October 2004, when it closed due to economic reasons. Fortunately, the "Neucel Specialty Cellulose Company" reopened the mill and saved the community. Port Alice has a bright econmic future.

Port Alice is situated on a south-east slope facing picturesque Neroutsos Inlet. Neroutsos Inlet is part of a larger arm extending from Quatsino Sound and the west coast of northern Vancouver Island just south of Cape Scott Provincial Park.

We drove along the inlet until the road ended at the mill site. We noticed cars and trucks leaving the mill driving through a car wash just outside the gate. Our rental VW Bug was very dusty so we decided to drive through.

We forgot to close the sun roof and ended up getting a bit of a shower inside the car!

We stopped along the way to take photos and noticed many of these lovely jelly fish in the water.

It was very interesting seeing an inlet open to the west coast. It was like a peek at our future adventure when we sail the west coast.

Wild Fox Glove, Butter Cups and Fire Weed add brilliant color to the landscape along the beautiful inlet.

June 21st - The Mysterious Creature of the Sointula Docks!

2009-06-22T00:43:00.000-07:00

I heard strange little foot steps scampering across the dock late in the evening. There were weird sounds resembling soft growls and muted barks. When I rushed up to the cockpit to see what was lurking about there was only an apparition of a small chocolate colored creature darting out of sight beneath planks of the dock. I waited patiently with my camera to try and capture an image of this elusive mystery!

ALAS! SUCCESS! BUSTED!

IT IS THE INFAMOUS "STINKY MINKY" as he has been named by the locals or sometimes known as a "Gucci Rat". This stealth little mink roams the docks looking for fish, crab or the occasional unsuspecting small mammals !

This most famous of fur-bearing animals is a common resident in British Columbia. It is almost always associated with water, and is an excellent swimmer. It feeds on aquatic animals and amphibians, birds and small mammals. On the BC coast, where it is commonly seen, its diet is full of crabs and other marine life. It is a fierce hunter; and has been reported holding the head of a large gull underwater until it drowned.

"Pierre's Echo Bay" and Pig Roast

2009-06-21T18:46:00.000-07:00

Pierre has transformed Echo Bay into a wonderful marina with all new docks, upgraded store and fuel station. He erected the large tent on a piece of floating bridge from Seattle to accomodate the Pig Roast Extravaganza.

He moved the float houses down from his old site.

He and his wife host the Pig Roasts. They supply the pig, baked potatoes and dessert and the guests bring a side dish.

The pig is cooked on the huge bar-b-que.

The variety makes for a grand feast!

"The Pig will live on through a lot of happy boaters.

Kathleen and Jim happily await our table to be called.

We fill our plates with the great vaiety of food and the delicious tender pork.

We really enjoyed the food, new and old friends and to know that Pierre and partner have saved an important landmark in the Broughtons!

June 19th - Exploring the Broughtons

2009-06-21T16:51:00.000-07:00

We departed Sointula and headed around Donegal Head. "Eagle Wing" Jim and Kathleen's boat is on it's Maiden Voyage into the Broughtons.

We anchored with Eagle Wing rafted to us in Viner Inlet. A badly needed rain storm came in during the night.

"Zorba the Dog" is Kathleen and Jim's Schipperke. It was his Maiden Voyage to shore for a walk when he decided to jump in. Jim's quick reaction plucked him out immediately. He was cold and wet. We considered it his "Baptism"!

In the morning we headed for Echo Bay.

I prepared a fresh Apple and Raspberry pastry with Cinnamon and Splenda.

I had a lot of apples so I also baked a no sugar Apple Pie.

Kathleen and I felt like little girls playing with the scraps of dough. With some Cinnamon and sugar we baked them and were catapulted back to our childhoods.

Louie cleaned and cooked his catch of crab at Echo Bay while we went exploring.

We hiked a rather strenuous trail from Echo Bay to Billy Proctor's Museum. At several points on the wet and slippery trail we had to use ropes to repell up and down embankments. It looks like Billy will have enough wood to get him through the chilly nights.

We passed this log cabin that is being built by a young couple living off the land. They scavenged the logs adrift in the water. They are doing it like in the days of old without modern equipment of any kind. There are so many interesting people here!

We visited "Yvonne Maximchuk" a famous northwest artist, painter, teacher, potter, quilter and author.

She has a divine garden looking over Proctor Bay. It brings visions of Monet's Garden in Giverny.

Her Peonies are magnificent!

We ventured to the Burdwood Island Group and ancient summer village site. You can see the thousands of years of shelling clams, oysters and barnicles in the form of a "Midden". The Kwakwakawakw First Nations have inhabited this area for thousand of years.

The white shells shine through the clear water.

This dog followed us as we explored the island.

The pristine white shell beach almost looks tropical.

We had a very WET ride home in the afternoon winds and bumpy seas. Kathleen and Jim are soaked by the spray!

June 18th - A Visit to Quatse River Hatchery

2009-06-21T16:02:00.000-07:00

The Hatchery is located near Port Hardy on the Quatse River. The northern Vancouver Island Salmonid Enhancement Assoc. is non-profit and was founded in 1983

The Hatchery has produced and released over 62.5 million juvenile salmonids since 1983.

This is a container of eggs waiting to be fertilized.

Here are the different stages of Salmonid growth.

When the Salmon Frye are ready to be released into the river they are transported by this truck. There is also a Salmon Interpretive Center for residents and tourists in development to provide much needed education on the importance of restocking the dwindling supplies of fish in the surrounding rivers.
The association can be contacted at: nvisea@island.net

June 17th - Return to Sointula

2009-06-17T13:50:00.000-07:00

It is always a good feeling to return to Sointula. The sign says: Population 800, but residency has dropped to the 600's. There is a calming peace in the atmosphere.
We enjoy visiting with our friends Kathleen and Jim Blohm.

Just at the entrance to the harbor there is a memorial: "To Those of Malcom Island that have lost their lives at sea". It is a sobering thought and is deeply felt by all in this small community.

There is a new restaurant in the village and they serve wonderful Lattes!

It only seems right that I got to ride around the island in Kathleen and Jim's 1972 original Mini Cooper. It is the perfect car for this land lost in time!

The Sointula Co-operative Store is the longest continuously running co-op in Canada and is a left over from the Utopian Finnish Socialist Community that settled here in the early 1900s.

Many of the old net sheds are still along the waterfront.

We picked fresh Salmon Berries along the roadside as we explored the island. I mixed them with Saskatoon Berries (darker berries loaded with anti-oxidants from the Prairie Provinces of Canada)

They are the perfect adornment for this Sherry Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting. We will be taking this to a feast at Joyce and Wayne's owners of "Choyces" a local art gallery.

A wonderful time was had by all by all. We enjoyed hearing the story of how they built their home out of one huge cedar tree which they cut from their land and milled at their own saw mill.

There is a huge organic garden full of vegetables and flowers in the back yard.

We attended another feast on the deck of Kathleen and Jim's deck overlooking the water. The main course was Lou's fresh Dungeness Crab!

In the Mini-Cooper we explored the island. This person lives along the shore and obviously loves to collect driftwood.

A lone Blue Heron feeds during the ebbing tide.

This inviting pathway to the beach is along the road.

Some naughty goats and cows escaped and were caught in a neighbors garden.

They scurry home along the roadside with their owner herding them in his car.

Sointula translates from the Finnish Language as: "A place of harmony" and it is!

Gillnet Rugs of Sointula - "The Tidal Zone Studio"

2009-06-15T12:16:00.000-07:00

Wendy Davis of the Tidal Zone Studio graciously invited us into her world of making Gillnet Rugs which are unique to Sointula. They are "fur like" to the touch yet extremely durable. The colors vary depending on the age of the net and how long it was used.

In 1952 Helmi Pakkalen immigrated to Sointula from Finland and noticed the many discarded fishing nets lying about. Net regulations and fibers change making the nets obsolete. She knew there had to be a use for them and thus Sointula Gillnet Rugs were invented. She was before her time as far as "Recycling".

The nets are washed to remove salt and debris and then cut into manageable lengths.

They are then cut into lines with tails every 5 to 6 inches.

The thread is then layered into empty coffee cans with a hole cut into the lid. The individual "coffee can bobbins" can then be easily managed when the strands are crocheted into the rug.

The leftover ends are rolled into balls to be used for other projects such as these beautiful scarves.

Depending on the desired density 4 to 5 strands are crocheted together.
The underside shows the pattern of increases at each corner
.

The end product is a beautiful, soft, durable rug that will last many lifetimes!
Wendy from "The Tidal Zone Gallery" can be contacted at: wendavis@telus.net

June 7th - Crabbing in Port McNeill

2009-06-07T23:15:00.000-07:00

This beautiful plethora of Dungeness Crab was caught here in Port McNeill. Louie's 3 hour process of cleaning, scrubbing and cooking yeilds this crab lovers dream. We will pick the meat from the shells to prepare the crab for pastas, omelets, cocktails and salads.

June 4th - Campbell River to Port Harvey

2009-06-07T02:01:00.000-07:00

The main street of Campbell River in 1950.

We departed Campbell River at 7am, filled our tanks with fuel and headed for Seymour Narrows. This is the infamous area where currents can reach 18 knots at max tide. We timed our Passage through Seymour Narrows on slack tide with the wind on our nose and the incoming tide against us. Things were going well until we hit "Current Passage" and we were confronted with max tide. I had to wake Lou from his nap to take the wheel and give me some relief from fighting the whirlpools that form in this narrow stretch of Johnstone Strait. Eight hours from our departure we pulled into Port Harvey one of our favorite anchorages.

We anchored in 41 feet of water tucked behind one of the Mist Islets. It was such a perfect evening that we decide to go exploring in Wings.

The little float house with the small sailboat is really living the "Northwest" lifestyle. Lou waited for me in Wings while picked some Sea Asparagus.

I found a lovely patch growing on a pristine white shell beach.

I had borrowed Lou's Swiss Army Knife to cut it as not to disturb the roots for future growth. I soak it in fresh water overnight to remove salt and any foreign bits then blanch it for 2 minutes in boiling water. It can be a delightful addition to a salad, or as a vegetable or a garnish for presentation of seafood. It is full of potassium and vitamin A.

Port Harvey is in the "First Nation's Keecekiltum Reserve" and was a summer encampment for the "Tlowitsis Tribe". The evidence is everywhere. This is an ancient shell midden where clams, oysters and barnacles were shelled by the women of the tribe. There is an abundance of shell fish in the area.

The fading pictograph along the smooth surfaced cliffs commemorate trading with a large sailboat. It appears that 5 canoe's greeted the white man's trade ship.

You can see the five canoes and the faint outlines of the trade ship.

The evening light shines on the ancient abandoned midden.

June 1st Our Voyage So Far

2009-06-01T01:07:00.001-07:00

View Circumnavigation of Vancouver Island in a larger map

This map is interactive and by clicking on "Larger Map" you can click on the various Icons you can see the details of the locations on Google Maps!

May 27th - Gorge Harbor: Keel and Rudder Check

2009-05-30T12:41:00.000-07:00

After our 6 hour passage from Pender Harbor we were happy to look back through the narrow entrance to Gorge Harbor.

We will have "Jedediah" the diver look for possible damage from hitting the rock in Nanaimo.

We could hardly recognize Gorge Harbor Marina. There are new docks, fuel station building, ramp, swimming pool, hot tub, stone barbecue and fire pit, rooms above the store redecorated and new stone pathways all around. The plumbing and septic systems are new and up to code for this delicate Eco system of oyster farming in the bay. The marina had not opened yet but they let us stay on the new docks to wait for Jedediah.

A wealthy family from Victoria purchased the resort and have made the wonderful renovations not only for public use but for their large extended family and friends. It will not be totally dependant on just the proceeds from public facilities to stay open in these challenging economic times.

You can see Seventh Heaven on the new dock through the blossoming tree.

JEDEDIAH HAD GREAT NEWS!

A small piece from a former repair which appeared to have had a bubble because of the smooth indentation on the underside had come loose and he brought it up for a souvenir for me. He checked where the keel attaches to the hull and the rudder and all was in great shape with no signs of damage. The piece he is holding chipped off the side of the very bottom of the keel where I apparently glanced the rock.

I rewarded him with a nice hot Latte!

After the good news we went out exploring Mansons Landing on Cortes Island. It was named after the Postmaster in 1893.

This has been a First Nation's shellfish harvesting area for thousands of years.

The beaches are a combination of sand and shell. Boats love to anchor in the area and come ashore to harvest clams and oysters as well as play on the sandy beaches.

When the tide is out it exposes the lagoon. In the distance you can see people harvesting oysters.

Steamships would tie up at the dock to bring mail and supplies to the early residents of Cortes, Is.

Lou and I returned to Gorge Harbor on Wings. The water was flat calm and mirrored the brilliant blue sky.

Lou and Mary's Seafood Pasta! The Best !

2009-05-28T22:47:00.000-07:00

As we departed Pender Harbor we could see the snow capped peaks of the mountains lining the passage between Texeda Island and the mainland. The water was smooth and there was barely a breeze.

The current was in our favor as we passed Powell River and we were cruising along at 8.6 knots without the help of the sails. We had planned to go to Lund but when we arrived we almost hit a prawn float. An inconsiderate (or unaware to be kind) Prawn Boat Captain dragged his float about 500 yards behind his boat right in our path as we made our turn to enter Lund Harbor. It was teaming with activity. Prawn Boats, Fish Boats, Pleasure Boats, Water Taxis and Float Planes coming to pick fresh live prawns at the peak of Prawn Season. We decided to go on to Gorge Harbor.

After our 6 hour passage from Pender Harbor we were hungry and since we had lots of fresh Dungeness Crab and White Spot Prawns I decided to make one of our favorite dishes!

We want to share the very best Seafood Pasta in the World!

1 Large Yellow Onion Chopped
1 Head Fresh Garlic Pressed
1 Small Jar Capers
2 Cans Italian Baby Clams w/ Juice
(Fresh Clams or Chopped Clams can be used)
Fresh Cooked Dungeness Crab Meat
1 lb. Fresh White Spot Prawns Raw
1 Cup Dry White Wine
1/4 Cup Virgin Olive Oil
1/2 Cup Butter
Sea Salt to taste
Fresh Ground Black Pepper
Red Pepper Flake (to taste)
2 tsp. Ground Italian Seasoning
Zest from 1 Lemon and 1 Lime

1 lb. Barilla Whole Wheat Pasta
Boil water Add Pasta
Cook Pasta "Al Dente" Do Not Rinse!
Makes 6 large servings!

Saute Onion and Garlic in Virgin Olive Oil
Add White Wine and Simmer until alcohol is cooked off
Add Salt, Black Pepper, Red Pepper Flakes, Capers, Italian Herbs and Lemon/Lime Zest
Add Prawns, Cook until meat turns white and be careful not to over cook (not more that 3 minutes).
Add Clams
Quickly stir until Hot
Finish with Butter

Toss in Pasta, Butter and Add Louie's Fresh Crab (out of shell) at least 10 minutes before serving to allow juices to soak in the Pasta.

Serve in a large bowl with a glass of cold, dry white wine and a crunchy Baguette to soak up the broth.

In Italy it is not politically correct to serve Parmesan Cheese with seafood. But if you like it, do it!. Eat your heart out Martha Stewart!

May 26th - Pender Harbor

2009-05-27T22:26:00.000-07:00

Pender Harbor is a great stop on our way north. After our experience with "The Rock" in Nanaimo we were happy to sail across Georgia Strait with a 15 knot wind on our beam. We anchored near Garden Bay Marina in Pender.

We went exploring in "Wings" to the public dock. It was a beautiful day!

Louie loves the warmth of the sun.

This wood carving displays the local food chain.

The brilliant colors of the Rhododendrons dazzled our eyes.

YES! that is a Palm Tree. Lou thought we were in the tropics. They don't call this the "Sunshine Coast" for nothing!

We purchased these "White Spot Prawns" live off the boat. I beheaded them and used the heads for crab bait.

Lou and I had a crabbing contest. I dared to challenge the infamous "Crab Louie". We were using chicken legs for bait. I added a can of Anchovies pouring the oil over the chicken in my trap. Louie just had plain chicken in his trap. I caught 2 crabs. Louie caught ZERO! The next challenge was Louie put chicken legs and Anchovies in his trap and I put prawn heads in mine.

We both caught 2 big ones each!

There is a face of a Happy Man!

I am happy also!!!

May 25th - "Shiver Me Timbers" I HIT A ROCK !

2009-05-26T16:53:00.000-07:00

From Chemainus we headed north through Dodd Narrows at low slack and anchored for the night at Newcastle Island. In the morning we purchased some fuel at the Nanaimo fuel dock and then headed north.

They say about hitting a rock: “There are those that have, those that will and those that lie.” Here is my confession: "It is the most horrible of feelings when the keel grinds its way along that submerged lump of grief! Especially when my eyes were fixed on the chart plotter to assure myself that there was plenty of water to pass by the infamous Oregon and Passage Rocks. We entered the narrow cut between Nanaimo and Newcastle Island. I was at the wheel and Lou was sitting next to me watching the chart plotter as we carefully proceeded. Even though we have been through there many times we were exercising great caution. When we approached the markers I made the choice to pass between the markers just above the cursor in the photograph above to reach the deeper water. We felt the keel hit and I instantly threw the engine in neutral. The coffee in the cup I was holding shot out in a stream and Lou lunged forward cutting his finger on his own fingernail as he grabbed the chart plotter. I reverted back to my Irish Catholic beginnings which I thought was long since forgotten yelling: "Holy Mary, Mother of God what in the hell was that!" We floated backwards and I turned the wheel over to Lou and we continued to safe water. The image of 2.7 knots on the speed indicator when we hit is burned in my memory. After exiting the channel Lou went below to check under the floor boards. He checked the keel bolts and the bilge to make sure we were not taking on water.

As it turned out it was exactly at low slack tide because I could hear the calls on the marine radio from boats transiting Dodd Narrows. It was one of the lowest MINUS TIDES of the year!

May 23rd - Chemainus

2009-05-26T14:19:00.000-07:00

We rounded "Turn Point Lighthouse" built in 1893 on Stuart Island and headed for Pender Island to check into Canadian Customs for our six month cruising permit.

After clearing customs we headed for Chemainus on Vancouver Island. The name "Chemainus" comes from the native shaman and prophet "Tsa-meeun-is" (Broken Chest). Legend says that the man survived a massive wound in his chest to become a powerful chief. His people took his name. In 1858 settlers arrived and founded a logging town and a railroad was soon to follow.

On the dock we ran into an old aquaintence "Thomas Taylor the Poet" aboard his beautifully restored "Seeker of Truth" a 1913 Norwegian motor-sailor. Found on the hard behind a barn she had to have several planks replaced because of drying out.

How could one forget a sailor that has a picture of his boat tatooed on his chest and back!

Seventh Heaven and Seeker of Truth are dock mates.

As we venture downtown Chemainus we begin to see one of 39 murals that have made the charming town famous.

This is a striking mural in honor of the area's First Nations Naut’sa mawt Tribe of which the Chemainus People or "Tsa-meeun-is" are members of.

There is also a rich Asian history here. Mining, fishing and forestry were the original industries that gave work to many Chinese who worked in "bull gangs" struggling to move huge lumber planks to the ships in the late 1800's, and who arrived to work on the trans Canada Railroad later.

Scottish and German settlers looking for riches in the mines and staying to work in the forests and on fishing boats brought diversity of cultures into the area.

Modern conveniences arrived with the success of the economy.

Chemainus re-invented itself with the decline of logging, fishing and mining into a charming tourist destination. It became "The Little Town that Did" and has a popular and quite famous Live Dinner Theater that both boaters and travelers enjoy.

Another unusual fact about the area is On January 13, 2006, a Boeing 737 aircraft was sunk off the coast in order to build an artificial reef for fish and other sea creatures including divers. The sinking was documented in "Sinking Wings", an episode of the Discovery Channel.

May 19th - Oh, Our Aching "HEAD" !!!

2009-05-23T14:01:00.000-07:00

It was as if a ghost inhabited our forward head. Our new recently installed electric toilet started flushing on it's own. Upon further investigation it was also "leaking" and we will spare you the details of that. Soon it began to blow fuses and when Lou would replace them it continued to flush non-stop until we turned off the main breaker or another fuse blew.

Thirteen days into our adventure we realized that there was no other alternative but to return to Roche Harbor where the work had been done. The above photo is a picture of the culprit. It is a faulty push button panel to flush the toilet. It took three days to analyze the problem and order various parts. Hoses were tightened and the main control panel was replaced all under warranty and no cost for labor or moorage. Roche Harbor Marine really stands by their work and John is a great business man.

Roche Harbor is home to the "Phecal Phreaks", a small boat that will visit your boat to "pump out" while visiting the resort. (No pun intended).

As we entered the harbor we passed the 136 ft. historic schooner "Zodiac". The Zodiac was built in 1924 as a graduation present for one of the heirs of the Johnson & Johnson pharmaceutical fortune. She served from 1931-1972 as a bar pilot schooner in San Francisco, delivering harbor pilots to vessels traveling the treacherous waters near the Golden Gate as the last working pilot schooner in the United States. She now is available for pleasure cruising.
http://www.schoonerzodiac.com/default.htm

The fragrence of Lilacs fill the air near the lovely gardens of Roche.

Flower lined pathways invite visitors to meander amongst the blossoms.

On our last evening we enjoyed a dinner with Mary Ann and Candace on the deck of the Madrona Restaurant. Louie plays "Taps" on his imaginary bugle at the nightly sunset ceremony of lowering the flags of Roche Harbor, Canada, Britain and the United States complete with cannon fire!

The sunsets are spectacular at Roche!

May 17- "Crab Louie is on the prowl!

2009-05-23T13:40:00.000-07:00

We were very fortunate to find a spot on the public dock in Ganges. It is Canada's Victoria Day weekend and there are many boats in the harbor. The next morning Crab Louie heads out!
NO CRAB WILL BE SAFE!

The next day we enjoy the fruits of his labor!

May 16th - "Around Saltspring"

2009-05-15T23:34:00.000-07:00

As we headed towards Ganges on Saltspring Island we came upon approximately 100 sailboats with their colorful Spinnakers attempting to fill in the mild breeze. Sailboats and sails of all colors and sizes sailed by as we passed the opposite way.

The boats were participating in the circumnavigation of Saltspring Island in this annual race.

It was a lovely sight!

May 12th - The Inuksuk of Maple Bay

2009-05-14T11:08:00.000-07:00

Maple Bay amongst many improvements has added a striking piece of art called a "INUKSUK"
The geography of the far north has few natural landmarks. The Inuksuk may have been used for navigation, as a point of reference, a marker for hunting grounds, or as a food cache. Inuksuit (plural for Inuksuk) vary in shape and size, with deep roots in the Inuit culture and continue to serve as an Inuit cultural symbol.

You can see "Seventh Heaven" in the background being "Hauled Out" on Maple Bay's 50 ton travel lift for her annual bottom maintenance. She will be power washed, taped and her bottom painted

Louie observes with a watchful eye as "Steve Lindstrom" skillfully drives the travel lift into position. Stands are placed to hold the boat upright when the lift drives away.

World's Largest Hockey Stick

2009-05-14T02:21:00.000-07:00

Canadians love hockey and there is no doubt that we are in Canada when we came across the "World's Largest Hockey Stick" in Duncan, BC:
The World's Largest Hockey Stick is 40 times life size.
The shaft and blade of the stick are made in sections with steel-reinforced Douglas Fir beams measuring 3 foot by 4 foot (91.44 cm by 1.2192 m) for a total length of 205 feet (62.48 metres).
The stick weighs 28,118 kg (61,000 pounds) and was built in Penticton BC. The final product was trucked to Vancouver in two pieces, spliced together on the ground, then lifted into position on August 21, 1985.
After the fair in Vancouver, the hockey stick was transported to Vancouver Island by barge and 3 flat bed trucks exactly two years later, on August 21, 1987.

May 6th - Our Adventure Begins

2009-05-10T23:30:00.000-07:00

Our adventure in British Columbia has begun. We have released the lines from Friday Harbor and we are underway at last!
After clearing customs at the Port of Sidney we continued on to "Genoa Bay". It is one of our favorite places. Everything one could ask for is there, beautiful scenery, good crabbing, great restaurant and friendly surroundings

There is a small store and a great covered gathering place.

This one of the many interesting "float homes". Several artists live in the community.

Lou brought "Wings" ashore to check a leaking tube. The tide had receded which exposed the problem. When the tide comes back in we will re-float the inflatable.

Our dear friends Alex and Michael who live aboard on "Zeehond" joined us for a wonderful dinner. They supplied a delicious hunk of Halibut served with a pineapple salsa, marinated mushrooms and olives. We supplied fresh organic spinach sauteed in garlic and virgin olive oil, steamed whole grain rice and lots of delicious wine.
Michael is on medical leave from the Canadian Coast Guard because a severe injury he incurred while performing a rescue on the west side of Vancouver Island. The rescue involved an inexperience boater with 4 children aboard. The boat was caught in the surf and was eventually grounded on the rocks. Michael was injured while his Coast Guard inflatable was pounded by the huge waves. He is truly our "Hero"!

We enjoyed our dinner in the cockpit. The weather was clear, warm and sunny.

Michael took us on a cider tasting adventure at "Merridale Cider Works" in Cowichan Valley, BC.

This is NOT Grandma's squeezed apple juice. This is HARD CIDER with alcohol contents of anywhere from 7% to 16% and absolutely delicious!

http://www.merridalecider.com/ciderhouse/products

Apples come from their lovely orchards with many varieties of apples.

The apple trees are bursting with blossoms. Looks like a great crop is in the making.

Merridale is just starting to make Brandy.

Louie and Michael clowning around with the casks in the processing area.

May 3rd - Opening Day of Boat Season

2009-05-10T22:50:00.000-07:00

Friday Harbor Boat Parade is lead by the Fire Boat.

The season has officially started!

May 10th 2009 - Dear Friend and Author of "Manning Up in Alaska" Dick Dreschler and His Wonderful Wife Sharon

2009-05-10T17:33:00.000-07:00

Our Hull #07 Seventh Heaven's sister ship Hull # 140 "Last Resort" meets us in Auke Bay near Juneau, Alaska. We had been communicating with Dick and Sharon on the "C-470 website" for quite awhile and found out that they would be joining us in Alaska in 2008.

Here are Dick and Sharon at our home in Friday Harbor, WA signing and mailing copies of his recent book "Manning Up in Alaska".

Dick’s fast-paced Manning Up In Alaska is a riveting, good read and an entertaining adventure book. At times we laugh; at other times we hold our breath. Regardless of whether we’re sailors or landlubbers, he holds our wide-eyed attention with this action-packed tale as we sail with him and his wife up the coast from Mexico to Alaska aboard his 47-foot sailboat, Last Resort. The amazing truth is that lifelong sailor and hard-driving entrepreneur Dick Drechsler didn’t expect to live, much less cruise 2600 miles of ocean. After neck and throat cancer treatment confined him to taking nourishment from a feeding tube, he lost his energy, humor and will to survive. He was forced to retire; he was unable to travel. Worst of all, he was no longer able to enjoy his passion for sailing. This book is about how, despite these very long odds, he refused to give up. His story of regaining partial use of his throat; pursuing a lifelong dream to cruise in a sailboat and discovering a new, exciting avocation is a page-turner in every regard. And, in the end, Dick came to dedicate his life and this book to helping other cancer survivors enjoy life and even thrive.

http://voyagesoflastresort.com/

The Story of "Popeye" Friday Harbor's Official Seal!

2009-05-10T16:14:00.000-07:00

"Popeye" is a friendly face around Friday Harbor and is so loved that she has a statue dedicated to her in the park above the harbor. She is blind in one eye and the artist so cleverly dipicted this by inbedding a piece of white pearl shell where her eye once was.

She frequently appears next to the fish market on the main dock of Friday Harbor. Brenda and Eric owners have taught her to wave her flipper and then she is generously rewarded with a nice Herring. It is always a delight to see her!

2009 SPRING HAS ARRIVED!

2009-04-19T02:58:00.000-07:00

The blossoms are bursting!

The colors of Spring are everywhere!

The "Foxes of Southbeach" have mated and the fox kits have been born!

I suspect that this male fox is "Dad".

This Aubern Vixen is the "Mother".

She gave birth to five "kits".

I sat near the fox den for about 45 minutes and the kits finally appeared.

They frolicked and played with one another!

They noticed me and stopped in their tracks.

After they stared at me for awhile they went to playing with one another.

February! It is time for Kashmir Goats to be born!

2009-02-19T14:09:00.000-08:00

Here is a Nanny Kashmir Goat ready to give birth anytime.
They are native to the Himalayan regions of India and Tibet.

Nanny goats herd their "kids" out of harms way!

Kids romp and play with one another.

Instinctual behavior starts as play as the two young "Billys" butt heads.

December and Long Cold Winter of 2008

2008-12-20T02:13:00.000-08:00

This has been one of the coldest winters in the memory of many "old timers" on San Juan Island.

The winter sunset casts a golden hue on the blanket of snow at South Beach.

The 10,778 ft. snow covered cone of the Mt. Baker volcano looms in the distance.

Oct. 31st Halloween In Friday Harbor

2008-10-31T01:01:00.000-07:00

Halloween is a very special day in Friday Harbor.

Costumed school children parade by our house on their way to the festivities in town.

Little Goblins gather on the front porch with their threats of "Trick or Treat!"

An old witch has taken residence on the front porch holding her eyeball to scare away the little creatures that come out on Halloween night.

A Quick Trip Around San Juan Island.

2008-10-14T08:04:00.000-07:00

There is still a hint of color on the plants at Pelindaba Lavender Farm

This will be the final harvest before winter.

This Island Farmer has a great sense of humor!

It is good to back! I look forward to checking up on the foxes at South Beach on San Juan Island. It is really great to see this little red fox again

I caught the fox by surprise.

The island is ablaze with Autumn colors.

It is great to see "Mona" again!

The Harvest Moon is rising on this crisp Autumn evening with Mt.Baker in the distance.

Sept. 24th - Home Sweet Home!

2008-09-25T07:31:00.000-07:00

Our 3,800 mile, six month odyssey has come to it's end!
We have completed the circle.
We will savor the wonderful memories and during the winter we will plan our next adventure.

It was difficult to leave "Seventh Heaven". She has been our home and refuge for the last six months protecting us from wind and rain, high seas and icebergs. She has taken us amongst the creatures of the deep and allowed us to see the incredible beauty of the north. She is now in her winter berth at Roche Harbor.

Sept 16th - 23rd Heading Home!

2008-09-18T08:07:00.000-07:00

We retraced our passage south stopping at Campbell River for two nights and Comox for one night. Our next port was Nanaimo for one night. In the morning we timed the tide for Dodd Narrows and with the wind and currents with us, we bypassed two scheduled stops at Maple Bay and Genoa Bay and headed for home!

Sept.15th - Johnstone Strait to Port Neville

2008-09-17T00:36:00.000-07:00

As we passed by Blackfish Sound near Robsin Bight we came upon a pod of Orcas.

We have often seen them in this area.

It was a beautiful day and the current was in our favor.

We always enjoy seeing Lorna when we stop at Port Neville. She is the Post Mistress and curator of her family's store, now a museum, founded in 1924. She is the granddaughter of the first settler that came there in 1891. She lives in this remote place alone now that her only daughter is married and living in Campbell River. Her smiling face is a welcome sight when she greets you at the dock and helps with the lines.

In the morning we waited for the fog to clear.

To our amazement a ethereal "fogbow" appeared, a "rainbow" without color. This brilliant apparition looked as if you passed under it, you would enter the world beyond. The superstitious side of me took it as a "good sign" to leave for our passage through Seymour Narrows.
According to Wikipedia: "A fog bow is similar to a rainbow, but because of the very small size of water droplets that cause fog, smaller than 0.05 mm, the fog bow has no colors and appears white. Fogbows are sometimes called "white rainbows" or "cloudbows". Mariners sometimes call them "sea-dogs."

Sept. 13 - A Real Northwest Feast!

2008-09-14T20:29:00.000-07:00

It has become customary to have a seafood feast at Kathleen and Jim's in Sointula.

The menu included:
Louie's Fresh Cooked Crab
Kevin's Fresh Coho Salmon with Sesame and Honey, Giant Grilled White Spot Prawns
Kathleen's Jicama Coleslaw, Smoked Salmon and Halibut, Cheese and Crackers and Sangria
Mary's Balsamic and Mandarin Orange Salad and Apple Pie with Vanilla Yogurt
Jim made Cappuccinos to top it all off. Simply Wonderful

The setting sun overlooking Rough Bay from the deck where the silhoette of a bird sculpture slowly fades into the darkness. Good Night Sointula and see you next year!

Sept. 11th - A Visit to Sointula

2008-09-14T18:55:00.000-07:00

Upon arrival to Sointula I was invited to join a group of "Hearty Finnish" residents of Sointula to hike a 10K out to the west side of Vancouver Island to San Josef Bay. It is located just below Cape Scott, the northern most tip of Vancouver Island facing the Pacific Ocean. Early in the 19th century there were several Scandinavian settlements in this wilderness that failed due to the harsh conditions.

We hiked through the lush rain forest along a well marked trail.

There are a myriad of plants laden with berries and blooms.

Mystical formations abound as we continued on the trail expecting to see a gnome or a fairy peek out from under a tree.

A variety of mushrooms grow in the damp rich soil of the forest floor.

As we rounded a curve we could see the first glimpses of the San Josef Bay and hear the pounding surf of the Pacific Ocean.

Alas, the "outside" or the open ocean. After sailing the inside passage for a long time a new sense of freedom and openness overtook me!

As I hiked the beach, I came upon volcanic plumbs extruded through the sand from some ancient eruption.

I spent hours beachcombing on the smooth sandy beach.

Gulls rested and a mirror like reflection was created in the sand as the gentle waves broke on the beach.

We hiked back to the logging road and as we drove out we encountered this huge black bear! At first we thought he might charge the car but we stopped and rolled up the windows.

He continued along the road and then slipped into the forest.

Further down the logging road we encountered this young bear eating clover along side the road. He paid no attention to us and just kept about his business.

Out in the middle of nowhere was the welcome sight of the "The Scarlet Ibis Pub". I am sure it is there for the convenience of the loggers that work in the area. After all of those bear sightings we were ready for one of Canada's hearty meals and a hard cider!

This is definitely a meal for a logger or in this case a 10K hiker.

I couldn't resist taking a photo of a plate of Canadian Poutine! Surely this will put the pounds back on that were lost hiking 10K.

The Long Journey Home

2008-09-09T00:34:00.000-07:00

We felt as if Neptune himself had sent this magical escort.
As we sailed down Fitz Hugh Sound we encountered a pod of about 100 White Sided Dolphins jumping and diving in the brilliant blue water.

Soon others joined us racing in the bow wake.

They played with us for over an hour.

I almost fell in hanging over the bow as one rolled on it's side to look at the red headed creature looking back.

Then just as they appeared, they disappeared moving away at lightening speed.

We pulled into Duncanby Landing off of Rivers Inlet to prepare for our crossing of Queen Charlotte Sound to Vancouver Island.

A playful otter greeted us.

We enjoyed a beautiful sunset and settled in for the night.

Aug. 28th - Farewell to Alaska!

2008-08-29T01:32:00.000-07:00

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Our weather window has arrived and we will slip through a brief opening after waiting 10 days in Ketchikan. We feel a sense of sadness as we untie the lines at dawns first light. We begin our passage south and will leave the beauty of Alaska behind. As autumn approaches the message is brought by the howling winds, the pounding rain and the raging seas that the veil is dropping and the treasures that we have so enjoyed will become inaccessible behind it.
Salmon will spawn and die and then be reborn again. The wildlife that feasts upon their remains will return to their dens and nests nourished for the long winter ahead. Rivers of ice will thicken in the winter snow storms hopefully enough to sustain them in the coming seasons. Rain soaked residents will go on about their business in the land of the midnight sun and the winter darkness.
We will remember with delight what the “The Last Frontier” has given us. The thrill of seeing our first iceberg! We felt a spiritual experience of seeing nature’s wonders at their best in Tracy Arm and Glacier Bay. We witnessed iceberg sculptures carved by calving glaciers for our eyes only at that moment in time, never to be seen again. How can one forget seeing a stealth grey wolf in the wild pursuing an awkward young moose or the magnificence of a group of Humpback Whales bubble feeding off of Point Adolphus? We felt sheer and utter joy seeing the whimsical Tufted Puffins of St. Lazarius Island bobbing in the surf. We will never forget the multitude of Bald Eagles we saw soaring and diving in their mating rituals. Then there are the bears that we watched for hours, mothering and teaching their young. I was in awe when I saw my first Grizzly with her twin cubs feeding along a river choked with spawning salmon.

In our dreams we will sail along the fijords lined with snow capped peaks where no man has walked before and remember the remarkable warm and generous people we have met whom have chosen this land of extremes to live in.
Farewell Alaska and we hope to meet again!

Our Chart Plotter displays the US - Canadian Border.

Aug. 20th - Waiting Out A Gale Alaskan Style!

2008-08-25T03:19:00.000-07:00

The day after we arrived in Ketchikan, to our surprise Sharon and Dick aboard our sister ship "Last Resort" arrived and docked close by. Vern and Joy on "M/V Wine Time" who so graciously greeted and helped us tie up when we arrived, joined in and we all became instant friends. They have shown us real Alaskan hospitality!
The weather forecast was grim with "Small Craft Warnings", "Gale Warnings" and "Rain", lots and lots of "Rain". For the last week the wind has howled gusting to 38 knots in the slip. Dixon Entrance which is open to the Gulf of Alaska had 11 to 14ft. seas and gusts to 40 knots. It takes more than that to get a bunch of sailors down. So what did we do, ya ask? We had a PARTY!

We gathered in the cockpit of "Last Resort".

We had variety of wonderful cheese, Scallops Picata with Garlic Toast, Shrimp with 4 different dipping sauces, wine, beer and of course Louie's diet soda.

Vern is an excellent chef and created Fresh Spring Rolls with a delicious dipping sauce and a thermos full of hot Saki.

There were lots of stories, laughs and hugs.

Vern and Joy are residents of Ketchikan and have a permanent slip at Bar Harbor.

There are many colorful boats in the fishing fleet docked in Bar Harbor.

The next day Joy took Sharon and me sightseeing around Ketchikan. We visited Totem Bight Park. This is a reconstructed typical Native Clan House of the 19th C. It is one large room with a central fireplace and could house 30 to 50 people.

In 1938 the U.S. Forest Services began a project to salvage, reconstruct and create Totem Poles a tradition which was dying out. They brought together older native craftsmen to restore old poles and carve new ones and thus passed on skills to younger generations.

This is haunting image on an old pole being restored.

I really enjoyed this newer pole with a whimsical bear on top followed by it's footprints.

Our afternoon was topped off with a visit to Salmon Falls Lodge for lunch. We had a view of the waterfall from our table.

The Generosity of Alaskans

2008-08-17T23:21:00.000-07:00

After a restful night in the secure anchorage of Meyers Chuck, in the morning we headed for Ketchikan. Fog played with our visibility but soon we could see Guard Island and entered Tongass Narrows past the Ketchikan Airport and called the Harbormaster for a slip. We docked the boat in Bar Harbor one of three harbors in the area. We met Joy and Vern when they graciously helped us to tie up at the dock. They recommended a local restaurant called "Ocean View". We decided to sit at the bar so we could watch the Olympics. We started a conversation with two young fishermen sitting next to us. We shared stories of places we have been, people we had met and fishing. We told them that we were not very good at fishing. They asked us the name of our boat and we said our good-byes. When we returned to the boat and found about twenty pounds of fresh Coho Salmon that had been cleaned and vacuumed packed. This was truly a "Random Act of Kindness!"

Aug. 15th - Wrangell to Meyers Chuck

2008-08-17T15:01:00.000-07:00

As we departed Wrangell we could see Elephant Nose Point through the mist and fog. It had been at least a week since we had seen the sun. We are starting our jouney south to Ketchikan where we will wait for a weather window to cross Dixon Entrance into British Columbia.

We headed for Zimovia Strait and through a challenging set of narrows.

The fog lifted and the sun broke through. In the distance we could see Ernest Sound and the mountains of Prince of Wales Island.

Feathery clouds appeared in the brillant blue sky and the water sparkled like diamonds in the sun as we rounded Cleveland Pennisula into Meyers Chuck,

Aug. 14th - Brown Bears of Anan Creek

2008-08-15T01:44:00.000-07:00

We departed at 8:00am through the mist and clouds 30 miles southeast of Wrangell to Anan Creek in Tongass National Forest

The twin engine speed boat skims across the water at 25 knots

Our guide was born and raised in Wrangell and works during the summer at the family owned business. Armed with a rifle he leads us along the boardwalk path to the viewing site. We are warned to stay close together and make noise to allow the bear to avoid an encounter.
He also suggested that if one needed to use the "Out House" to let him know. Curious bears have been known hang around outside the door for up to an hour while the person inside is held captive until it decides to wander off.

There are 7 in our group and our first sign that bears are near we see fresh footprints in the mud.

On the opposite side of the river we see our first brown bear and her two cubs. This species of brown bear are called Grizzlys when they reside inland.

She catches a salmon before our eyes.

She shares the catch with her cubs. Unlike the Black Bears of Anan, Brown Bears are shy and when she spots us she becomes nervous. Our guide suggested that we quickly move on to avoid an encounter.

Were we being "Mooned" by the three of them?

Black Bears of Anan

2008-08-15T01:40:00.000-07:00

"Oh No, the Papparazzi are here again!"

"Is this my good side?"

"Or this side?"

"Do my double chins show?"

"Maybe I'll just smile at them and they will go away!"

Let's Get Down to Some Serious Eating!

2008-08-15T01:32:00.000-07:00

"I am sooooooo hungry!"

"I just drool at the thought of those fresh rotting salmon!"

"Keep your eye on the prize, Babe!"

"GOTCHA!!!"

"Now, if I can just make it out of here!"

"HOLD ON!"

"Does this fur coat make me look fat?"

"Mmmm ! That Caviar is so delicious!"

"I'm going back for more!"

"So, I took a double serving. Who's counting?"

"Can you believe those Bears? They are getting so fat!"

And that ends another day on Anan Creek. The Bears and their Cubs wander back into the forest leaving their footprints behind . . .

Papa Bear's Pizza in Petersburg

2008-08-09T17:14:00.000-07:00

We had to go all the way to Petersburg Alaska to find the great Pizza! Scott (Papa Bear) adds roasted garlic (upon request) and carefully rolls it into his homemade crust. He then adds the finest ingredients to create the Pizza of Pizzas. He takes such pride in knowing he has researched and chosen the best cheeses, meats and other acquirements to create a "Masterpiece of Pizza"! Plus he is a really great guy and new friend. We can't wait to come back to Petersburg!

July 29th - Aug. 11th around Petersburg

2008-08-09T15:51:00.000-07:00

We decided to "land" in Petersburg and stay awhile. The town is about the size of Friday Harbor but it is a working town with 3 major fish processing plants. Fish boats come and go constantly dropping off their catch at Trident, Icicle and the local Petersberg Seafoods. The pungent odor of crab, prawns, shrimp and Salmon fills the air. The sights and sounds awaken all of your senses. The landscape is ever changing with fog, mist, rain and yes, even sometimes SUN!

Frederick Sound is lined with mountains and many hanging glaciers. The aqua blue ice is exposed by the rain and reveals Baird Glacier.

Dark clouds appear out of no where and for a moment we are caught in a pounding squall.

The sun appears once more, at the entrance to Wrangell Narrows and the town of Petersburg then "THE DEVILS THUMB" appears!

The crystal clear blue sky reveals the details of this infamous crag.
Chapter 15 of "Into the Wild", Jon Krakauer describes in harrowing detail his attempt to climb the northwest face of the Devil's Thumb. When he realizes that this route is far too dangerous, he decides to "lower his sights" and settle for the relatively easier southeast route. The northwest face has been one of the greatest challenges available to mountain climbers, and no one has ever done it which makes it that much more appealing.

On a dinghy ride we spotted a "Frozen Mermaid" held captive by the long tendrils of sea kelp until she melts and returns to the sea. Le Conte is the southern most tide water glacier 26 miles south of Petersburg on Frederick Sound. Icebergs can be seen floating along the sound with the movement of the tide.

The Alaska State Ferry "Fair Weather" stops in Petersburg.

Mega yachts often stop in Petersburg to re-provision and purchase fresh seafood.
The 126 ft. sailboat "Kaori" named after a Japanese Saki, pulled into port. His owner is from England and made his fortune inventing something for the medical profession.

The "Signe Lynn" pulled in next to us. Louie started talking with the crew.

He remarked about their "Crab Cooker" which was steaming and bubbling froth from the fresh Alaskan King Crab they were cooking. The cooker is made from a beer keg. They cut off the top and made supports for the lid. It is perfect to accommodate the long legs of King Crab.

They generously shared their catch with us. We had delicious dinner of the most very FRESH King Crab we have ever eaten!
Another wonderful day in Paradise!

July 29th - Louie's 71st Birthday in Petersburg AK

2008-08-08T19:09:00.000-07:00

We arrived in Petersburg a charming village with a Norweigian flare and the fish processing center in southeast Alaska. We had a delicious dinner at the Beachcomber Inn. They send a car to pick you up at the harbor.

We spent a lovely evening on the banks of the Wrangell Narrows.

We returned to the boat for my homemade chocolate Birthday Cake!
HAPPY BIRTHDAY LOUIE!

July 27 - Cannery Cove, Admiralty Island

2008-08-08T18:51:00.000-07:00

We departed Kake and headed for Cannery Cove on Admiralty Island. The island is supposed to have more brown bears i.e. Grizzlys than any other place in Southeast Alaska. We anchored for the night and with vigilance scoured the beaches for bears.
No bears but Louie caught some crab.

We call this "Louie's Crab Wash". He places the crab in a heavy net bag and ties it to the stern. We drag it until our next destination where he will cook them. They are scrubbed clean by the moving water. They don't call him "Crab Louie" for nothing!

The Bears of Kake

2008-07-27T16:20:00.000-07:00

There is a small salmon hatchery on the Gunnuck Creek in Kake. Many Black Bears gather here when the salmon return to spawn.

They return to the place where they were born after approximately 4 years at sea in one of nature's most unique mysteries. By the time they reach their destination the males have been transformed changing the shape of their jaws and teeth to fight for spawning rights. Both male and female change color to red and orange as they begin the dying process after laying eggs and spawning.
This is a great opportunity for bears to bulk up for the long winter on the carcasses of the fish.

This one decided she better take care of "business" and she pushes with her front paws and wishes she had eaten more berries!

Looks like she is contemplating her plan of action.

This big gal just came to eat!

Mother Bear sent Baby Bear up the tree to stay out of the way.

When Baby Bear starts to slip she yells out for mother's help!

Mother Bear looks up in dismay and growls some instructions! Baby Bear manages to re-gain its balance.

Baby Bear confides in a young Bald Eagle about the perils of tree climbing.

Mother Bear is constantly teaching her young the survival techniques it will need when PaPa Bear returns and the young bear will be on its own.

It appears that Mother Bear is scolding a young teenage bear about something. We can hear the growls from the other side of the shore.

Whatever it was they disappeared into the forest!

Let's Go Salmon Fishing!

2008-07-27T15:30:00.000-07:00

This looks like a good spot!

They are under here alright!

Getting ready to make my move!

TAKE A DEEP BREATH!

GERONIMO!!!!!!!!!!!

MISSED!

I'LL BE BACK !!!

Finally! and I am not sharing with anyone, not even the cubs!!!

July 26th - Dog Salmon Festival in the Village of Kake

2008-07-26T15:03:00.000-07:00

The Kake tribe of the Tlingits predominately reside in this small village of approximately 700 people. Their infamous history includes an incident with Captain George Vancouver in 1869 which eventually ended up with a United States Navy Vessel destroying three Kake villages. The Kake Tribe rebuilt the present day village in 1890.
The village boasts the tallest Totem Pole in Alaska at 137.5 feet.

We attended the annual Dog Salmon Festival. The colorful Master of Ceremonies in his native dress organized teams of children for many fun activities.

The patriotic Native Veterans from the small village of Kake presented the colors representing US Air Force, Marines and Army. They served in Vietnam, Korea and Desert Storm.

A traditional feast was served of crab, salmon, halibut and seaweed with salmon eggs.

The elders of the community dressed in their Native Regalia

Music, chanting and dancing are a important part of the celebration. Participants of all ages dance, sing and beat rhythms on drums.

Louie managed to find French Fries in the midst of a myriad of native delicacies such as salmon row in seaweed, native fry-bread and seafood of all types prepared in traditional ways.

July 23rd - Baronoff Warm Springs

2008-07-23T21:10:00.000-07:00

As we approached Baronoff Warm Springs, our friends Ruth and Ken on"Misty Blue" had saved a spot on the dock between them and another boat. The current from the waterfall grabbed us just as we were docking creating some anxious moments and putting a ding on the stern of Misty Blue.

A closeup of the powerful waterfall.

After the tense moments the steaming wooden tub looked very inviting.

Louie could hardly wait to jump in!

We enjoyed hiking and taking in the beautiful waterfall up close and personal!

I couldn't move Louie out of the nice wooden tub so after my hike I enjoyed the warm mineral water in a metal watering trough used for livestock . . .

Pre-Russian Occupation

2008-07-21T20:32:00.000-07:00

The Tlingit Tribe were the dominent residents of the Sitka region before the occupation of the Russians. They were successful hunters and fisherman. They were accomplished artist as well.

They put up a fierce battle against the Russian invaiders but were eventually overtaken. This carving represents a "Holy Man (a Russian Bishop) with a gun!

Lou stands by a Totem Pole near the site where the battle for Sitka took place.

At the "Alaska Indian Cultural Center" Tlingit carvers, weavers and jewelry makers teach and display the ancient skills of their forefathers.

It is very inspirational to see the arts of the old culture being handed down to future generations.

July 19th - Alaskan Raptor Center

2008-07-21T03:36:00.000-07:00

The Alaska Raptor Center is the foremost Bald Eagle Hospital in the world. It treats 100 to 200 injured eagles as well as other species of birds a year.
Alaska Airlines flies injured birds for free from other locations throughout America. Their hope is to release the birds into the wild when they are well however some are so severely injured that they join the Raptors In Residence Program where they will become part of an education program for school children.
Please read the quotation on the photo.

This is an X-Ray of a Bald Eagle that was peppered with buck shot. It was removed and after recovery it was released into the wild. The white dots throughout the body are the lead buck shot.

This is an X-Ray of a Bald Eagle who swallowed a fish hook. It was removed and the bird was released into the wild.

The center provides education for all those that visit.

There are many interesting displays.

Lou measures his wing span!

This eagle flew into high power lines and had to have a portion of his wing amputated. He is a permanent resident and is part of the educational program.

The birds are very well cared for and after the center closes to the public are released into a forested area to be free of a cage.

This bird had a "unknown impact" and had portions of both wings amputated. She is able to fly enough to get around but has lost the most of her vertical flight. She is also a permanent resident but does not interact with the public.

This is a Peregrine Falcon that had a "unknown impact". It's wing is damaged beyond repair and is a permanent resident.

This Red Tailed Hawk was sent from Montana. She has a rare bone disease and has had parts of her wings amputated. She will live out her life in this beautiful safe place.

This Great Horned Owl was hit by a car.

The sign says: "The Eagle has landed and now it's our job to get it flying again.

Lou and I were so touched by the these wonderful people both the doctors and volunteers that are so dedicated to the survival of these injured birds.

Louie finally got to ride on the back of a whale!